520 Chain and Sprocket Conversion

So you wanna convert to a 520 chain? Here's how I did it ...

First -- why? Less rotational mass, less unsprung weight and I wanted a slight gear reduction anyway.

Second -- what will ya need? Standard hand tools (although an impact wrench and die grinder will speed things up a lot), rear stand, chain breaker and riveter, lots of rags and a torque wrench.




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Now let's begin:

Put the bike on the swingarm stand and loosen the axle nut. Don't remove the axle at this time.


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Run the adjusters in fully on both sides and push the wheel towards the front. This will give you mondo slack.


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Now we'll concentrate on the front sprocket removal. I have Sato rearsets so I just removed the shifter linkage (gotta take the bolt out so it'll slide off the spline) and tucked it outta the way. Stock shifter may require more disassembly. Remove clutch slave cylinder (DON'T SQUEEZE THE LEVER!!!). Pull out the rod. Tuck any offending hoses out of the way. Pull cover out carefully. Take off metal chain guide (be careful not to lose the dowels).


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Clean all the pieces and put them somewhere safe. Here's what you should have off so far.


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If you have an impact wrench, remove the front sprocket bolt. It is just like any other bolt -- lefty loosey! If you're stuck with only hand tools have someone apply the rear brake while you loosen the bolt. Once the bolt and washer are removed it's time to cut and remove the chain. I cut my chain at the master link with a ziz wheel -- took 30 seconds max. If you have to use a chain breaker I suggest using a grinder (dremel) or a file to grind down the master link rivet and then press out the pin. You only have to press out 1 pin to break the chain.

Remove the old chain carefully so as not to bind on anything or scratch stuff. Remove the front sprocket (should just slide off). Put the new sprocket on and run the bolt in hand tight. You'll notice the new 520 sprocket seems off center -- more hub on one side. The side with more hub sticking out MUST face you. As a rule this will be the side with the stamped numbers. If the new sprocket is installed backward the chain will be misaligned and you will have a very bad day.


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Yes, it does appear that I'm giving someone the bird in that picture Remove the axle and rear wheel. I find a 4' 2X4 under the wheel helps to balance it while removing. Lay the wheel sprocket side up. Remove the sprocket nuts and washers (God bless the impact wrench) Remove the old sprocket and install the new one pretty side up. Torque the sprocket nuts to 47ft/lbs. Note: you don't have to remove the cush drive unit from the wheel as I did in the pictures. It's actually easier to leave it on the wheel -- especially when torquing the nuts.


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Reinstall rear wheel. Run the new chain on the sprockets and have it overlap at the rear sprocket. Make sure the wheel is all the way forward (adjusters in). Break the chain at the overlap point. Make absolutely sure to get this step right -- it sux to cut the chain 3 times and it's still too short.


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Insert master link -- remember to use supplied grease on the O-rings (RK's come already lubed - D.I.D. has tube-o-grease). Press on side plate. Mine measured .700 inches outside to outside. Check the other side plates to get your measurement as it may vary from chain to chain. Use the rivet tool to make the perfect rivet. If you're a noobie I really suggest that you buy the chain a bit long and buy an extra master link and practice pin removal, pressing and riveting BEFORE you actually do it to your bike. You're talking an extra $6 in parts but believe me it's worth it. I riveted until I got two beautiful .220 inch shrooms.


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Go back to the front sprocket and torque the bolt to 40 ft/lbs. Use the rear brake to hold it still while torquing. It's helpful to have an assistant but possible to do alone if you got a clicker torque wrench.

All that's left is putting everything back together. Clean all parts up and reinstall. Take the swingarm stand off and adjust chain slack (1" to 1 3/8"). Tighten axle nut to 83 ft/lbs.

Congrats! You're done.

Great post!! One question about the last part...wouldn't you wanna leave the bike on the swingarm stand to adjust the chain and tighten the axle nut??
Other than that it was AWESOME with great pictures
You make it look easy, especially for me, who has two left hands and only half a brain!!

Thanks Limpy You made me blush. I try to go by the manual so as not to confuse peeps with conflicting #'s. If I adjust the chain with the bike on the stand I use 1 1/8" to 1 1/2" of slack cause as everybody knows when the suspension compresses it takes some slack outta the chain.

very well done, liked the pics. i hear this is probably the cheapest most improvement mod you can do. great walk though for anyone who wants to make their bike a bit more street fun.

Chain-

Once you remove a pin from a chain at the master link can the chain be reused? If so I assume you just rivet in a new pin. If that is true will any reputable bike shop sell master links for a specific sized chain or do I need so specify the size and brand. I have a 520 kit on order and but I didn't order an extra master link or two.

I usually order a couple extra master links so I can take the chain off and give it a proper cleaning and inspection once or twice in its lifetime. You can get the masters at your local shop ($$) or save a bit and order online.

does any one have a supplier and part numbers for a 1- in the front and a 6 + inthe rear?I have a 1993 cbr 600!

Damn kid you stuntin on the 600 with a +6 rear sprocket. That's about the same size as the tire isn't it? LMAO

It will look like you have a freakin' pizza plate back there!

i want to thank you. i was changing mine and needed a little help. this is how i found this forum. your step by step instructions saved the day and a lot of time. so just wanted to thank you for the great post.

Is this the 2004 Honda CBR1000 RR RK Chain and Sprocket Kit. Q/A 520 Race Conversion 520 Kit with gold race chain. Is this the same sprocket kit you installed on your bike if not have you heard of this one and is it good

It was the top-o-the-line gold RK chain and aluminum rear vortex sprocket with steel front vortex sprocket.

Where did you buy the entire kit from and how much or where can i buy one If you know

Please give me the benifits of doing the sprocket change and some reasons why not