Are aftermarket pegs essential for track? - Page 2

you know that cf mount that holds the pipe to the rear pegs? mine was installed with the big loop part on the outside. i moved it to the inside (backside) of the rear pegs. now it's tighter with the bike and subframe.
 
do check the clearance of the midpipe and subframe. it may hit with the suspension unloads. no need to worry about when it compresses. i had to add washers to get it just right and keep it there.
 
yes it's possible to get the stock shock reworked! i actually was considering it but then wife said she'd get me the penske rear so i went with that.
 
Stig at ppsracing.com was the shop i was going to send the rear shock to, he would respring it to match my weight and also revalve as best he could the stocker.

cool, do you remember about what the cost was going to be  $100, $200, $500?

i think it was in the high 2's....this was back 3 years ago.
i think the best example on this forum as far as the whole rearsets thing is jaybird...he swapped his suspension and stopped dragging pegs, dragged knee and got his riding much better. now he's crazy so he has to go with aftermarket rearsets.
 
my take is that if you ride aggressively, you'll eventually need them (suspension and rearsets)...but there's a correct order to do them.
 
T

quote:

ORIGINAL: Tahoe SC

not a compare/contrast...it's just that you aren't really weighing the outside peg, you're just hooking the outside leg on the tank to hold yourself off and keep weight off the inside peg.

FYI...if your pegs are dragging before your knee and you weigh less than 200 with gear, then you need to get your body positioning right...the knee should be touching before the pegs.

stock F4i isn't sprung very well for anyone over 150-160 or so...if you get springs that match your weight, then your suspension wouldn't compress so much in a turn that you lose ground clearance and flinging you wide. but of course, this means redoing the front and rear suspension, lots of bling. doesn't matter how you try to adjust preload, etc...spring rate doesn't change...and that's what you need to match your weight.

if you're serious about track riding, do suspension first...then rearsets/rearset adaptors...otherwise, just go for the rearsets and do the suspension when you start to drag more hard parts...and hope that the soft suspension doesn't get you into trouble.

OG poster...get your bootay out of the bike and hang off like a monkey mang...you should be dragging knee in that shot!

T

 
So let me see if I got this straight, you're supposed to put all your weight on the outside of the tank with your knee? Heck I'm 240lbs (hope to get down to 200 by the end of summer) maybe I should look for a different bike then and trade in my '06 F4i? Maybe I should go buy a Harley, there's lots of people bigger than me that ride those things! haha
 
Mike

no mang...you're not putting your weight anywhere, you're just hooking your outside leg around the tank and using it to keep you from falling over...instead of putting your weight on the inside peg to prevent you from falling over.

I've never dragged anything except knee.  My first track outing I was a wuss and that was when I had stock suspension.  I am however looking at risers or rearsets.
 
VIPER- I'm scared for you at those suspension settings.  Stock rear preload is 3.  I had my stocker set at 6, when I was 215.  I'm now 205 in street clothes.
Also, having your front reb/comp fully closed means that you've got the forks hydro-locked.  Let em' move a bit, it will definately help your turn-in, braking, and bump compliance; not to mention the wonders it will do for your spinal column.
 
 

Thanks, I'll probaby play around with the settings.  The fronts still move a good bit, under braking mainly.  I never liked the nose dive, but I guess getting the weight forward helps flatten that front for stopping power...

I'll probably reset to stock all around a go from there.

The main reason I went to preload on the rear at 1 (I think so anyways, haven't checked) is b/c I can almost flat foot both feet when I sit on the bike.  My legs are a bit short for 5'9".

What about compression and rebound at the rear?  If I loosen the rear I will proably need to add preload to keep from scratching the hard stuff.

IIRC there's a notch for factory shock settings.  The way you've conceptualized the interaction of preload and compression is good for what you're trying to accomplish as your rear is concerned.  Preload is a gross adjustment and compression is fine adjustment.
 
As far as dive up front, I didn't get much dive with my stock forks, but then I wasn't hard on brakes then either so I can't comment much.  I'd recommend you add some preload up front and possibly a bit of compression...just a little and then retest.  And don't lock your arms on braking, that helps a lot.
 
However that dive can be used to your benefit if you're a trailbraker.  Just keep in mind that you may be near your bottom end.  Reducing your rear rebound will also help a bit, but IIRC you'll also get less movement just by upping that preload.  Adjust your rear back to stock reb/comp and go with a 5 preload.  Then change the front like I suggest above (from stock).  (are you confused yet)

Nah, not lost yet.

My understanding of preload is to adjust ride height, really just adjusting where the stock movement occurs, upper part of the shock (high preload) or lower part of the shock.  So if you are heavier, you compress the spring more, thus needing the "pre" load.  Never use preload to adjust the performance of the suspension, is that right or how right/wrong is it?  This is all assuming the springs are not progressive btw.

Sorry we are getting a bit off topic. :)

I'm sure someone can confirm, but IIRC the stock springs ARE progressive.

quote:

ORIGINAL: viper

Nah, not lost yet.

My understanding of preload is to adjust ride height, really just adjusting where the stock movement occurs, upper part of the shock (high preload) or lower part of the shock.  So if you are heavier, you compress the spring more, thus needing the "pre" load.  Never use preload to adjust the performance of the suspension, is that right or how right/wrong is it?  This is all assuming the springs are not progressive btw.

Sorry we are getting a bit off topic. :)

 
That's right.
 
The ideal setup for track use is setting the rear preload like this :
 
- The bike should sit in the spring for about 1/3 inch (1cm actually but i'm not good with incheds :) ) > without a rider on it!
   This means if you put the bike up sraight, and lift the rear, it should come out that much, then stop.
 
- WITH the rider on it, the bike should sit in the spring for an inch. If this is a lot more, you need a stiffer spring, if it's less, you need a softer spring.
 
When the rear spring preload was set stiffer to match this, increase damping, otherwise decrease damping.
 
Then you need to set the bike up straight, and push the bike down by pushing on the fuel tank. The front should have the same travel as the rear now, if not, set it stiffer or softer, and adjust damping accordingly.
 
A very nice site for suspension setup help is this one : http://www.sportrider.com/tech/motorcycle_suspension/index.html
 
checkout "suggested suspension settings"
 
Good luck ;)
 

A bit technical in nature, but here's a review I wrote of a good video by Dave Moss: http://www.cbrforum.com/m_268287/tm.htm
 
His website is here:
http://www.onthethrottle.com/v2/
Click Suspension>Honda>F4i