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Bike not starting

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nick16
10/29/2007 10:41:05 AM
So this weekend, I attempted to ride my bike...however, it would not start.  The electric would turn on, but the bike would not turn over...and as I continued pressing the button to turn it on, the weaker it got until it would not even attempt to turn over.  So I charged up the battery, which I soon found out would not hold a charge, and attempted to ride.  But was unable due to the fact that in the time it took me to put the seat on, the battery had already lost enough of the charge to where it wouldn't start.  I used a voltage meter on it to see that I would charge it up to about 13.5 DC amps, but it would immediately start to decline when disconnected.  When I would turn the switch on to start, it would drop to about 8-9 amps.  I just want to check with everyone who is much more knowledgeable than I am to see if you all agree that this is most likely a battery problem, and then on to my next question of where is the best place to get a reasonably priced battery?  I priced one out this weekend and the total came to right around $113.  To all those that know their stuff, please help.  Thanks in advance.
knightslugger
10/29/2007 10:55:46 AM

quote:

the bike would not turn over...


quote:

as I continued pressing the button to turn it on, the weaker it got until it would not even attempt to turn over.


Anyone else confued as to the chronology of these two statements?

quote:

I used a voltage meter on it to see that I would charge it up to about 13.5 DC amps


Amps? That must be one kick ass voltmeter... No, what i'm SURE you meant to say was 13.5 VDC...

quote:

When I would turn the switch on to start, it would drop to about 8-9 amps.


Again, I'm quite sure you meant VDC, not Amps.

quote:

I just want to check with everyone who is much more knowledgeable than I am to see if you all agree that this is most likely a battery problem, and then on to my next question of where is the best place to get a reasonably priced battery?  I priced one out this weekend and the total came to right around $113.  To all those that know their stuff, please help.  Thanks in advance.


The battery is shot, that's for certain. it's suffering from an open cell or two which is indicated by the low voltage when even a small load is applied. It does need replacement,. that is for sure. However, if you're not one who likes to spend 113 bux on new batteries all the time like myself, i would investigate WHY the battery died. They generally don't just go ka-put without some outside force. It could be that your Regulator/Rectifier module is malfunctioning and sending the incorrect amount of voltage to the battery causing it to short out. you'll need to test it. The other possibility is physical damaged done to the battery that was trauma induced. Stoppies and wheelies are two very good ways to ruin a perfectly good battery.

you need to find out why the battery died, otherwise your next battery will suffer the same fate in a very short a time.
nick16
10/29/2007 11:22:35 AM
Thanks for correcting me, and for the answer.  How would I go about testing the Regulator module, or would it be best to take it to a shop who would vastly overcharge?  Also, do you know of any good places to get the battery for cheaper...or do I bite the bullet?
Streetdemon
10/29/2007 2:36:32 PM
Want a el-cheapo battery?  www.batteriesplus.com.
 
Got a ton of time out of that battery and was only about 50 bucks.
 
 
knightslugger
10/29/2007 3:39:47 PM

quote:

ORIGINAL: nick16

Thanks for correcting me, and for the answer.  How would I go about testing the Regulator module, or would it be best to take it to a shop who would vastly overcharge?  Also, do you know of any good places to get the battery for cheaper...or do I bite the bullet?


Testing the regulator is pretty easy. all you have to do is make sure it's putting out the correct voltage at it's testing specification. that can be found in the service manuel, or after a search on this website or another competing website. the other test you should do is to make sure the stator is suppling the correct amount of power to the Regulator in the first place.

here is a handy guide i saved from a member on this site. good stuff.

http://webpages.charter.net/knightslugger/CSA.pdf

I would personally choose a Yuasa battery over a cheaper brand, but i have my brand loyalties. can't help it. i'm sure there are other cheaper batteries out there that perform likewise to the Yuasa, but i'll let someone else disseminate.

and with that, i wish you the best of luck. here's to hoping it's JUST a bad battery...!
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