Chains

Hey dudes, I've been looking for a good area to hook up with people of the same interest and I think I found it. Maybe someone can help me: I'm replacing my chain right now (2002 CBR 954 with 18K miles) and I'm having all kinds of trouble. I'm not a moto tech but I've been doing regular maint for a while. Why am I having such a hard time? Please help! I've also had a 1999 CBR F4, a 1980 Honda Spree and am currently rebuilding a 1972 CB 350. So I'd like to talk about anything Honda! Thanks for the help.

So people are looking, but not answering. Even if you have nothing to say about my chains topic, maybe we can learn someting about each other about something here.

What kind of trouble are you having?? Chain replacement is rather routine...if you have 18K miles you need to be sure and replace both the countershaft and the rear sprocket as well. Chains and sprockets are a "mated" assym, meaning if you put a old chain on a new sprocket ( or vice versa) the new component needs to mate to the old one. So you will have a new chain that is going to wear or completely wear out the sprockets ( bent or broken teeth) and a chain that will not last for beans...Secondly the chain required for your 954 is rather expensive due to the tensile strength required for your bike, dont put a cheaper, lesser grade than required. It will wear out very quickly and may even break causing major trouble ( like broken engine cases, don't ask how I learned this!!!)
If you need any help, let me know and I can set you up with the proper stuff
I own a motorcycle store in Roseville, CA
www.apexroseville.com and you can contact me thru that or thru here..
Good Luck
Tom Sharp
Owner
Apex Motorsports

Chains chains chains chains -- I got my screen name because I owned an '01 turbo Busa and buddy I did some changing of chains. The last one I bought was the same brand as is on the CBR1000RR - D.I.D. x-ring. I give it 3 thumbs up.

As far as trouble with changing the chains, it's fairly straightforward as long as you have a rivet tool and chain breaker. What Limpalot said about new sprockets also - you're talking $30 - $45 for sprockets and prolly $140 - $175 for a good chain.

If ya need more info just holler.

Well I have an x ring chain and I'm working on buying the sprokets (I know that I need them with the new chain)(any suggestions on where to buy them?), but the chain breaker I bought obviously had false advertisement because even though it said that it would work on the 530 chain, it couldn't handle it! I can fix that problem as well. My major problem is connecting the chain with the master link. I can't get it in the chain, and then securing it? I'm not sure why I'm having the trouble that I am because it is pretty routine.

Hi and welcome to the boards. Definatly trust what Sir & Chain say, they are two of the more knowledgable members on here. If you need any help, I know they can hook you up.

What kind of chain tool are you using? I use a motion pro with a couple of mods. To help it out when breaking the chain, try grinding the pins flush with the side plates -- much easier.

Sprockets -- I love sprockets. Especially the sprocket specialist color pretty aluminum ones. I ran one on pre-turbo Busa and it performed flawlessly for 7500 miles.

Now taking off the rear sprocket is easy enough but the countershaft sprocket can be a pain. The word here is impact wrench to remove. Put on the new sprocket and just tighten by manual wrench until it starts to turn. Put on new chain then have someone hold the rear tire while you torque the countershaft sprocket nut to spec with a torque wrench.

Riveting the new masterlink isn't hard but if you don't have the correct tools it's impossible. Things to watch out for (read: stuff I've done wrong in the past) : Pressing the side plates in too far (use a set of inside calipers and tighten plates a smidgen at a time), over-riveting the pins and making them crack (the object is just to make the outside of the pin larger than the hole in the plate -- it won't come off at speed -- believe me), and buying stock chains (D.I.D. is goooooood chain).

I'm certain Sir Limpermanalot can set ya up right with anything I've mentioned. Also, he prolly knows of a few more gooder ways/tools to use.

And thanks Neon, but my knowledge pales in comparison to a certain hairless wonder

quote:

ORIGINAL: chainstretcher
And thanks Neon, but my knowledge pales in comparison to a certain hairless wonder

Well if you go look at his profile, It's quite clear, I guess he decided to leave our boards. He hid his e-mail and turned off his pm's as well.

You can use the mini chain press tool from Motion Pro ( part# 08-070) and a set of Masterlink pliers (#08-0230) to install the clip. The chain press will evenly squish the chain together leaving the posts for the clip out in the breeze for you to get at them. The Masterlink pliers are designed for.....Masterlinks!! ( who would have thought??) It features on side of the plier that is longer and made to slide the clip onto the post!!!
Well good luck with your project.
I am sure that with a little patience and the proper tools your job will be successful

Are those tools for riveting the master or for a clip type? I know peeps that use the clips and have no problems but I prefer the rivet type master.

The vise is for either since it just compresses the masterlink onto the chain and then if you need to rivet the chain, you should use a chain riveter, the pliers are for the masterlink clip if you are using it. These are common tools available from Motion Pro..check out the website for them
http://www.motionpro.com/Docs/chaintools.html

here are some pics and info on the tools
The 08-0070 fits most 520-530 standard and O-ring chains.
Small size makes this tool ideal for fanny packs or small tool boxes. Includes a hex key wrench and is made in the U.S.A. (Shown at right side of photo)
08-0070: $24.90
Master Link Clip Pliers
Here is a real tool of convenience. This tool makes master-link clip removal and installation a breeze. Check it out at Indy and see how easy it is to use. Your dealers will love this tool and the low price will make this a popular tool with all enthusiasts.
Part number: 08-0230. Sug. Retail $27.90.


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Wow, grat information. So what I'm thinking is that I need the plier, the mini chain breaker and mini chain press tools. If I have these three tools, I can finish my bike (since it's on the stand now)? I also learned to be patient. I was a bit frusterated last night,... sorry.

Considering I forsee my mechanics going beyond my 954 (since I have a 1972 CB 350 in the garage in the "teardown stage") maybe it would be more benificial for me to get the pliers and the Chain Breaker & Riveting Tool Set. Any advice?

The Chain Breaker/Riviter set is a VERY NICE unit, but it is spendy!! It is about $100 at most places...the key to using it is that you really should grind down the rivet you want to punch out of the chain. It will weaken the joint and make it less likely to break the chainbreaker tip off ( they do sell replacement tips) and one guy actually used so much force that he bent the ACTUAL TOOL!!
The pliers is something you will use over and over, especially dirtbike guys who use paddle tires and have to run 2 masterlinks and a extra piece of chain for the paddle to clear the swingarm...
The Chainbreaker can be used on camchains as well, like the one in your old bike. So either one is a wise investment if you plan on doing your own work

So what's the performance difference if I go from a 43 rear tooth to a 44? Would I have to increase my chain length?

1 tooth isnt usually a problem...more than 3 though might require a longer chain. BUt intead of going up in the rear, try going down in the front. down 1 is equal to adding 3-4 teeth in the rear and then you have too much chain instead of not enough

1 tooth is barely even noticeable....the bigger you go in the rear ( or smaller in he front) will limit your top speed and increase your acceleration. And as a side note...if you have a bike that the speedo is driven off the transmission any change you make will affect the accuracy of the speedometer. So your MPH is reading to fast and your miles add up much quicker

So I went to the store to pick up the pliers, and on the website they're like $28,... good old retailers at $55!!! I thought that the mark up was a bit ridiculous and decided not to purchase them there! Do I have an alternative to these in order to get the chain on? I need something to spread the link, and put the master link in, and then secure it down. I'm lost in this stupid project! AHH!

So everyone can laugh at me now because I spent $130 on the chain breaker and riviting tool set and the chain press. Wednesday night all the tools and sprockets should arrive and there will be a bike buiding party in my garage (everyone is invited of course). I'll bring my difficulties to those around Wednesday night!

Dude, don't spaz -- you'll do fine. When I get a minute I'll take a pic of my masterlink so you know what it should look like when you're done. The $$$ spent is incidental -- you'd have spent that much to have a shop do it one time. So they'll pay for themselves the first time you use them.

Here's a question for you: does you have a 6" in/out caliper to measure the side plate distance? If not go get one. Lowe's has them cheap. Other than that it sounds like you got all the tools you'll need.

Hey chain can you list all the part some one would need because i about to do one on my bike.

Thanks
Nipz~

Not that much really. For me I just use the motion pro (got a link for it somewhere) chain tool. It serves as a breaker, press and riveter. Only other tool is 6" caliper to measure plates (to make sure you don't press it in too much).

Put the new chain on the new sprockets so that you can put it together in the middle on top. Make sure o-ring on master has grease on it (supplied with master link). Connect chain with master -- should slide right in. Put greased o-rings on the other side. Put side plate on master -- should go on a little bit then get tight. Take 2-3 measurements of other links and get the outside distance of the side plates. Use press to push side plate on the master. A little at a time and then measure at both pins to make sure it's even. Once you have the side plates the correct distance, use the riveting tool to mash the end of the master. Don't go nuts on this step - the ends can be cracked. You rivet one pin at a time and theres an insert for the tool that fits over the back of the master to keep from pushing the plates closer. Basically you're using the tool to press only the pin when riveting -- not the plate.

I swear it'll take you less time to do the deed than it did to read my lame explanation.

Only addition is when you get ready for a new chain, use a dremel to grind down the pins flush with the plate to make it easier on the breaker. I've broken a breaker because I didn't grind down the pins.

Thanks

Here ya go -- perfectly riveted chain ...