Dyno

I had my bike dyno'd today, and I only got 95.6. I was curious, do different dynos rate bike higher or lower?
 
I have a Barnette kevlar clutch with a Two Bros pipe, K & N air filter and a 520 conversion -1.
 
My friend did his all stock and got a 93.
 
Did this guy who dyno'd it do it different, he rolled at full throttle in 5th gear for the peak test. Any advice?

mine was dyno'd at 105. i have a 10"  two bros. pipe, K&N filter, no pc and a basic tune.

Weather - dyno - etc all will play a part. That's not outside the range of what I would expect.

I'm looking forward to getting mine dyno'ed this season.  A local shop is having Dyno Days on Wednesdays to try and bring in the large riding group we have every week, and $25 gets you three dyno pulls.  The same shop wanted $350 to do a full tune, so I'm hoping they'll bring it down on those days.

mine was done for free

just dynod mine today. bone stock. 93.8hp  42.47tq 

tunes? what would a 350$ tune do for a bike.. really... ?

numbers will vary some from dyno to dyno.  they will also vary from one run to next on the same dyno.  usually, when you get a bike dyno'd, they should make 2-3 runs, and usually throw out the first one.  for some reason the first one is always a little low.  I dont know if its becuase the bike is usually cold or what. 

They did 3 runs and the 3rd was the best. But i don't think this guy has ever tuned or callibrated his. He got it on Ebay and has only had it for about 4 months.

Every Dyno is diffrent.

Keep in mind also..

That weather and elevation play a HUGE HUGE part in a Dyno.

If it's humid you will lose Horsepower, if you live in the Mountains high above normal elevation where the air is thin you will lose horsepower.

you could Dyno your bike one day then the next day dyno it and get 5-10 more HP then the previous day.

just works like that.

my dyno said I had 4 million hp. :)

Thats pretty close to what I got with a JArdine midpipe,  a PC and a tune. What brand of dyno was he using? I believe that brands differ somewhat, and also lots of day-to-day variability, operator difference, lots of other factors. Compared to a bike like a Bandit 1200, adding power to a f4i is going to be very expensive and come in small increments. I was fine personally with the power of the stock F4i until I changed exhaust to get more ground clearance. Then I had dyno tuning to smooth out the curves. You wont get optimal results just by adding a PC and downloading a map. I doubt any F4i would make much over 100 hp without help from Erion and HRC on the same dyno you ran.

Depends what dyno it was done at, what settings were used on the dyno, etc. Like others stated weather effects dyno. 

quote:

ORIGINAL: KittenRR

tunes? what would a 350$ tune do for a bike.. really... ?

With mods a LOT..Better throttle respsonse over and above what a downloaded tune does.

Mine is smooth as butter and gets the same gas mileage now as it did when it was stock but making more power.

Sounds about right, I got 94.  Depends on the person running the test and the equipement.  I've seen the mobile dyno trailers tend to run a bit high and may not be accurate.

quote:

ORIGINAL: buckd44

my dyno said I had 4 million hp. :)

Holy shit! You too??? You and I must be running the same pipe!

Or smoking the same pipe!!

So exactly how much does it cost to get a "full tune" ?  The one guy said 350, is that how much they all are about?

should be by the hour...but usually range from mid 200 and up.
 
you'll need a pc3 at the very least.
 
is it worth it? well...if you're planning to run hard on the track, race, etc. then yes. but if you're just going to ride hard for track days and weekend fun, commute, etc...the standard OTS maps will be fine.
 
 

here in okla 50 for a dyno and 250 for a dyno and tune

The purpose of HAVING a PC in the first place is to facilitate tuning. Honda installed a perfectly good map on the F4i, one with smooth, manageable power, with some concessions to lowering emissions at below 6000 RPM.  A PC wont make the bike more powerful without intake/exhaust mods. After the mods, a tune will identify peaks and troughs in the power curves and fix them: downloading someone else's map assumes his bike acts the same as yours, and you like the same power curves. 

In actuality, duplicating somebody else's setup, and using their map will likely give you  sawtoothed HP/torque curves, with uncomfortable flat spots, jerky throttle response and maybe reduced mileage. You can "tune" a PC with a laptop and no dyno, but the Accelerometer in your butt isnt sensitive enough to do it right.

Has anyone downloaded a map to match their mods, and then had a tuner tell them that map was spot-on?

quote:

ORIGINAL: Sonomajay
The purpose of HAVING a PC in the first place is to facilitate tuning. Honda installed a perfectly good map on the F4i, one with smooth, manageable power, with some concessions to lowering emissions at below 6000 RPM.  A PC wont make the bike more powerful without intake/exhaust mods. After the mods, a tune will identify peaks and troughs in the power curves and fix them: downloading someone else's map assumes his bike acts the same as yours, and you like the same power curves. 

It's probably true that Honda does install a perfectly good map on the F4i, but I would assume that some of the tune that Honda decides to put on there also deals with emissions standards.  I can see how a power commander would most likely not be set to help cut down on emissions, but rather be tuned for performance.  But then again, I'm just on the sidelines here.  I don't even have a power commander lol.

i for one disagree that the stock map is 'good'...
as i'm finding out...even on cars...they're not geared towards driveability, but rather, set for emissions and longevity.
stock is jerky as $#!t.
 

I dont have any problem with a PC, I've used them on two of my bikes. First generation FJR owners claimed the bikes ran much cooler with the PC and a richer mixture.  I just have a couple of issues, how do you know if you are better off without getting it tuned, and at least in Cali, bikes are supposedly going to need smogging soon, and the only streetlegal PC is the EX model, which is not tunable at all below 6000rpm.

I just dont see it as a "must have" mod unless you actually pay for a tune too.  I saw  before and after maps, and the downloaded maps were certainly not smooth, not even as good as the stock map. 

I also disagree,the stock map is made for emissions not straight up power..But a pc and a good tune will make the bike feel WAY better..

Hell with a tune and a pc ,mine got BETTER gas mileage and is smooth as butter.

Having went from a stock bike ,to a pipe,then a few months later a air filter,then a pc (with a dl tune) then finally a dyno tune.No compairson between stock and now.

A pc is worth having even if the bike is STOCK..

Bikes just like tahoe said are geared towards emissions,and the worst possible rider in the worst conditions and not have any problems.Just like on a f250 6.0 turbo diesel ,put a good tune on it and pick up a easy 75+rwhp and 100rwtq..Mainly because it was tuned for the above conditions.

THe pc takes out the "extra" fuel and lean areas in the map.Makes the bike a lot better to ride.