Exhaust acuating motor bypass

Hey does anyone know if it is possible to bypass the exhaust valve actuating motor/potentiometer without throwing the MIL light? I've already swapped exhausts and removed the cables so there is no need for the motor and I need the space for my power commander since I'm using the space underneath the seat for my HID ballasts. I have looked over just about every square inch of that bike and the only three spots that are good for any kind of aftermarket item storage is the space where the exhaust valve actuating motor currently rests, under the seat, and behind the left side fairing (would require relocating of fuses and relays).

if you mean the servo that the actuates the cables
then it must be plugged in to the wiring harness or you will get a light

the cables can be removed from both the servo and the exhaust valve
but only a HRC ecu will stop the MIL light from coming on if you take off the servo itself

I really didn't want to hear that, Baxsom, but thanks for the reply. I guess I'll do some fiddling to try to work something out. I've removed the drive motor for the cables and in neutral I don't get a light as long as the potentiometer is kept at a certain spot (I'm guessing it's the "standard" (as the manual calls it) position. But while I had the actuator case apart, with the motor and potentiometer still wired, I tested it by turning the potentiometer ever so slightly and noticed that the motor came on (trying to adjust the cables to the correct spot I assume), but since no gears were attached, it kept spinning until it threw a code. So by keeping the potentiometer at that "standard" position, I was able to cut the motor off and simply have the potentiometer epoxied in place and it worked fine in neutral at all rev ranges. However, I did not take into account (stupidly) that when the bike is in gear and moving, the ECU expects the cables to be moving and therefore as soon as I go above 2-3 mph, the light comes on, but engine operation is not changed at all. Oh well, I guess I'll save up for a new one and be more creative with the options that I have available to me. Live and Learn.

you have done more work than anyone i have ever heard of
just leave the gold piece that the cables were connected to installed and it will not throw a light

check this page out
look under the heading on the left called Exhaust Gas Control Valve (EGCV)
http://hooliganbiketech.dynup.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_frameindex.htm

it shows the pic of the servo motor

the bike on the site is an 04 so the servo is by the engine block
on an 06 the servo is under the seat by the trunk lock
as long as the servo is plugged into the wiring harness you shouldnt get a cel

quote:

ORIGINAL: zerochickenstrips

I need the space for my power commander

Under the tank at the front of the battery box.

i must have a larger trunk than you do because my speedohealer, pc3, tool kit, and insurance paperwork fit into my trunk fine

what all is filling up yours?

to the best of my knowledge,the ecm does not want to see a open circuit(will turn on the engine light)
try using something place of the exhaust valve servo-i have been thinking about wiring up
leds for that connector-so while i am riding-every time the valve,that no longer exists, is told
to work-the leds light up!!why-no valid reason,except for keeping the engine light off
o8

Yes I realize where the motor is. I needed that space to put my Power Commander in because my trunk space will be filled with two HID light ballasts. Believe me, with them in the trunk, there is absolutely no room for anything else, esp. a power commander. Thanks for the responses guys. And outsider, I checked the manual and when testing the potentiometer, there is a specific range of resistance the ECM is expecting to see, otherwise it will throw a code. So in order to make your LED idea work, you would need some pretty extensive wiring to take care of all of the potential resistance values that the potentiometer goes through when the cables should be adjusting, but interesting idea. And MGA, I was trying places underneath the tank, including in front of the battery box, but there was just no room. I realize the PCIII is more or less water proof, but I still want to keep it out of the elements as much as possible.

In my trunk I have got,

DynoJet Power Commander,
DynoJet Ignition Module,
DynoJet Quick Shifter cable adaptor,
Alarm Unit with perimiter sensor, Igntion kill module,
ALOT of wiring to all the above, and below
Speedo Healer,
Reseister box for the intergrated brake light,
My inner gloves, balaclaver, Helmet holder wire......
That is a tight squeeze......?

Wanted to fit most of it under tank or anywhere but trunk but on the 06' their was no where at all that I could find????!

mu suggestions is to velcro it to the bottom of your rear seat or cowl

do you have a diagram of that circuit for a 06 1000?,my 954 s/m does not really tell me
much about it-except keep it plugged in!,i have 5 pin connector-2 pins are used to power the motor,
2 other pins have splice points to other sensors(tells me-power and ground circuits-can be unplugged)the last
pin monitors the last 2 pins mentioned-this wire is the key to removing the
valve-when i posted the reply-it was based of off the 954-i cant see the 06 model
being anymore complex-is it?
o8

you're putting hid ballasts in your trunk? that seems like an awfully long wire run for somethign that high of a voltage. hopefully they don't arc with that long of a run. i found some way to get them to fit in the front fairing (granted i have an f4i so i dunno how much room is actully in the 1krr

There is absolutely zero wasted space on the 1KRR. I couldn't even fit one of the ballasts in the front. There is a spot inside the left cowling (that houses the fuse box, air flapper vaccuum canister, some relays, and other wiring), that once the vaccuum canister is removed you can bunch all of those other items to the right with some minor rewiring and I may have been able to fit two ballasts on the inner cowling, but they weigh about a pound each. I don't think the inner cowling would have been able to suppport that weight. Plus it would have been really difficult to mount all of the relays and fuse box into one corner without making it look like a rats nest (which I hate).

quote:

ORIGINAL: outsider8

do you have a diagram of that circuit for a 06 1000?

The red and blue wires are what powers the motor. There is a yellow/red wire that connects to the throttle position sensor and I believe the intake air pressure sensor. The other two wires I'm sure if they have a branch to any other items, but I do know that the ECM is expecting a resistance of 0-5 kohms between these two wires, so it has to be constantly changing. I'll get an actual wiring diagram from work on Tuesday and let you know exactly where the wires go.

2006 HID Install
http://www.1000rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=21915&highlight=HID+Install

2004/2005 HID Install
http://www.1000rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=16983&highlight=HID+Install

Maybe a dumb question, but what function does the valve perform and what are the cables attached to? (servo)?

This is what you do; first, using a marker-mark the servo in the "factory" neutral position, remove the cables, then line up the marks from the servo wheel to the mounted motor, thats all you have to do, the light will stay off as long as ther servo believes it is in the "factory" position..................

quote:

ORIGINAL: buckward

This is what you do; first, using a marker-mark the servo in the "factory" neutral position, remove the cables, then line up the marks from the servo wheel to the mounted motor, thats all you have to do, the light will stay off as long as ther servo believes it is in the "factory" position..................

Correct, but he wants to remove the whole servo motor, not just the cables.

If anyone wants to get rid of that big heavy ass thing... I have one HRC ECU left, but it fits only a 2004-2005 CBR1k...