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HID Installation (for older style HID kits)

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Blue Fox
2/11/2007 4:43:24 AM
NEW UPDATED HID WRITE-UP HERE:

http://www.cbrforum.com/m_379249/tm.htm

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UPDATE: (Feb 27, 2007): Rewire of ballasts & Wire cleanup: See bottom of this post for update.

UPDATE: (Feb 22, 2007): Alternate Igniter Placement: See bottom of this post for update.

Original Post:

This is a write-up for an HID conversion with generic HID kits that consist of a large ballast, large igniter and HID bulb itself for a 2006 600RR. The kit that I used was bought off of an eBay store for 119.99. Yes, it’s VERY generic, but it works, and for 119 bucks, it looks and performs great!

So I can put this to bed….YES…..ANY H7 HID kit will work on our bikes. Cars that use H7’s have the EXACT SAME bulbs as we do in our bikes, so as long as you order and H7 HID kit, it’ll work regardless.

I bought the 10000k HID kit. They are very blue in apperance and have a slightly purple tint to them. (a lot like a BMW M5 or Mazda RX8 wth HIDs). The light output on the road looks like a white LED. Very white with a very SLIGHT hint of blue. They look great, and are very bright. If you want more of a true white, get the 6000k or 8000k. If I was going to buy again, I would probably go with the 8000k's. Just my opinion though.

Now, for the installation......

To start off, you are going to need automotive grade wire. I believe I used 16 gauge “primary” wire. It comes in a 30 ft. package, and you can usually buy it at any automotive store (I bought all of my stuff at Checkers). It’s roughly about 5.00 per package, and I bought a red, white and black one (which I’ll explain why in a later on.)



Now, in the picture above, notice how I kept my workspace in anal-like organized manner. This will really help when you are putting your bike back together. Keeping it clean will just make the whole thing go smoother, trust me.

As in the picture, I have the following supplies…..
- Wire strippers
- 16-gauge automotive wire
- Fuel-line hosing
- Hex wrench that came with the bike
- Flat head screw driver
- Butt-splice connectors
- Permanent Marker
- Masking tape

Now, here is how I went about mounting my ballasts. In the generic kits, they are huge when they are compared to the newer smaller ones. So, there isn’t really a place up front to mount them, so I decided to relocate them to under the rear seat. They “just fit” into the nooks on the sides. Plus, this keeps them out of weather (even though they’re water-resistant.)

Also, I didn’t want to take any of my fairings off, so this whole installation was done WITHOUT taking off any fairings with the exception of that triangular piece right below the seat on the left side of the bike, and in a minute, you’ll know why. But if you did take off the fairings, it would go by a little easier.

To start, take off your seats. To take off the main seat, fold back the rear corners of the seat to reveal the bolts holding them down. There should be two at the back. Take these out, put them in your “anally-organized workspace”. Label them with the masking tape (this helps later on, TRUST ME!)

Once you have the seat off, you’ll need to take off that triangular piece right below the seat on the right side. It uses poppers, so you can just pull it off, though I think there is one of those plastic anchors holding the end of it to the rear-seat cowl, so you’ll need to take that out too. You will now notice that the bikes main wiring harness routes itself right through this area, and that’s where we’ll route our “extended” wiring harnesses too.

First thing is to put the bulbs in. Th
vpsophmore
2/11/2007 2:19:49 PM
awesome write up...how long did it take you to do the whole thing?  I've got a kit I still need to put in but I don't have a garage so it'll have to be a one day thing.
Blue Fox
2/11/2007 8:42:39 PM
1 day is MORE than enough to get this project done. Total, I spent about 5 hours on it. But most of that time was wasted by trying to find out what I need to do, how the HID's worked, how to route them, why the bulbs didn't fit, etc, etc. If you follow the tips in my write-up, you should be able to get it done in no more than a couple hours.
D2DGraphix_600RR
2/11/2007 9:42:48 PM
LOVE the 10k look. Awesome write up1 Now you got me thinking, haha
HAVOC
2/11/2007 11:01:04 PM
very thorough write up ..
dragonium25
2/11/2007 11:12:46 PM
"I see Blue...he looks glorious"
Evan
2/13/2007 11:21:43 AM
Nice write up.  I've installed the hid's on several cars and my bike.  I never even though of using heater hose or fuel line for a loom.  Nice thinking!
Blue Fox
2/14/2007 9:51:16 PM

quote:

ORIGINAL: Evan

Nice write up.  I've installed the hid's on several cars and my bike.  I never even though of using heater hose or fuel line for a loom.  Nice thinking!


Thanks. I figured that I was routing the wiring almost direcly over the engine, so I needed something that would put up with the heat, and fuel line does just that. Plus, it really makes for a clean and professional looking installation (with the exception of me mounting the igniter's up front). I recently reloated them to behind the front fairings, which looks GREAT now. I'll post pics when I get a chance.....along with an updated write up of how to do that.
Klassh
2/21/2007 5:00:52 PM
I agree about the fuel line hose. I wonder if electrical shrink tubbing would work for the smaller lines. (Even though most of us are getting pretty proficient with the gift from the gods that is electrical tape)

Where is our update :-(
ChrisMcD
2/21/2007 10:09:36 PM
Nice write up.....good job looks great!!
Blue Fox
2/22/2007 5:27:01 AM

quote:

ORIGINAL: Klassh

I agree about the fuel line hose. I wonder if electrical shrink tubbing would work for the smaller lines. (Even though most of us are getting pretty proficient with the gift from the gods that is electrical tape)

Where is our update :-(



Funny you ask about the update.......because I just updated. Check it out, made a HUGE difference in the amount of "mess" the old setup made.
jasonb
2/22/2007 8:13:17 PM
how much did you get those hid kit for?
And what k are they 10000?
dragonium25
2/23/2007 12:59:04 AM
quote:

ORIGINAL: jasonb

how much did you get those hid kit for?
And what k are they 10000?


 
How 'bout reading the first 3 paragraphs of the post...
ddaren
2/25/2007 1:44:55 AM
Personally, I think HID's are HID's no matter what brand... as long as they work and look good.  However, different brands have different colors at the certain color temperature (like how clothes are... buying a medium ecko shirt is like an extra large in others).
 
My friend and I have a pretty well known brand (McCulloch) at 6000K, pretty white with a hint of blue.  My other friend has a generic brand for a lot cheaper at 6000K and it looks very very deep blue.  In my opinion, both look good, but I'm the shallow type of guy to go more expensive for the brand name.  LoL.
 
So for those who wonder about Ebay generid HID's, go for it... just make sure the seller is trustable.
soonster
2/26/2007 1:18:40 PM
Hey BlueFox, great write up.  I'm planning on upgrading my 2003 CBR 600RR headlights to hid. Wonder if you can provide some additional info regarding the low beam pattern (if possible, some night shots of the low vs high beam from the rider's position).  Any info is greatly appreciated.  Since I ride mostly in the city, dont really want the light pattern to scatter to high. 

Thanks,
Soonster

Blue Fox
2/26/2007 5:20:40 PM

quote:

ORIGINAL: soonster

Hey BlueFox, great write up.  I'm planning on upgrading my 2003 CBR 600RR headlights to hid. Wonder if you can provide some additional info regarding the low beam pattern (if possible, some night shots of the low vs high beam from the rider's position).  Any info is greatly appreciated.  Since I ride mostly in the city, dont really want the light pattern to scatter to high. 

Thanks,
Soonster




Honestly, the light pattern is EXACTLY as it is with the regular H7 bulbs. HID lights don't affect the light pattern, just the color and the amount of light output. The HID's will look exactly the same, but they'll be whiter (LED like white) and much brighter.

If you're worried about the high-beam being too bright, you can lower it (which I did). But, the high beam light pattern is diffferent compared to the low beam though. The high beam scatters light higher and further away (so you'll usually find yourself turning your high-beams off when following a car). The low beam makes a nice, horizonal beam of light.

During the daytime, I ride with both lights on. At night though, lately I've been just riding with the low beam on. The HID's are so much brighter anyway, the single light still produces more light than both the old high/low beams together.

So my suggestion to all that are thinking about (or already have) an HID system.......Ride with the low beam at night. I found that if you adjust it so the low beam is aimed just a smidge higher than stock, you won't ever really "need" your high beam unless you are on the highway at night, or on back roads (even then, the low beam works brilliantly). Plus, you won't be beaming light directly into the back of people's heads in their cars. (which I notice still happens even if the high beam is lowered).

Another suggestion is this.......HID bulbs use a color temperature color chart to give you an idea of what color the light output is. THIS IS NOT TRUE FOR BRIGHTNESS!!!!!! People often think 10000k HID's are brighter than the 6000 or 8000K HID's. NOT TRUE. My 10000k have slightly less light output or "brightness" than the 6000 or 8000k HID's, but appear as a deeper blue from far away (with a bright LED-like white on the road). If I had a "do-over", I would probably go with the 6000 or 8000k HID's.

I'll also get some night shots up as soon as nighttime comes.

Hope this helps.
SinfulSOB
2/26/2007 10:24:17 PM
Ok I have a three part post.....
 
First I have a question. How would this work with the "Angel, Demon, Halo"  eyes? Well I guess I dont fully understand how those kits work totally either. But just curious.
 
Secondly has anyone had space issues with fitting the kit with an undertail kit that already has a PC back there. The module looked pretty big.
 
And finally, I have a small piece of advice for you guys. I have been an avionics tech for roughly 8 years and we just had and issue our blackhawks that had wire bundle routed through a tube loom. There was obviously vibration caused during flight, which inturn caused the loose wires in the loom to chaff, and even smoke a few wire harnesses. So my advice to you is to spend the extra cash and buy some heat shrink for your wires, before you send the through the fuel line. It will stiffen the wire a lil bit to reduce the vibration chaffing, plus it acts as another layer of chaff protection.
 
PS. Blue Fox- I just wanted to curse you, because now I have to add another item to my wish list. Great write up and thanks for all the diagrams and pics 
 
 
Justin 
Blue Fox
2/27/2007 1:44:02 AM

quote:

ORIGINAL: SinfulSOB

Ok I have a three part post.....

First I have a question. How would this work with the "Angel, Demon, Halo"  eyes? Well I guess I dont fully understand how those kits work totally either. But just curious.

Secondly has anyone had space issues with fitting the kit with an undertail kit that already has a PC back there. The module looked pretty big.

And finally, I have a small piece of advice for you guys. I have been an avionics tech for roughly 8 years and we just had and issue our blackhawks that had wire bundle routed through a tube loom. There was obviously vibration caused during flight, which inturn caused the loose wires in the loom to chaff, and even smoke a few wire harnesses. So my advice to you is to spend the extra cash and buy some heat shrink for your wires, before you send the through the fuel line. It will stiffen the wire a lil bit to reduce the vibration chaffing, plus it acts as another layer of chaff protection.

PS. Blue Fox- I just wanted to curse you, because now I have to add another item to my wish list. Great write up and thanks for all the diagrams and pics 


Justin 


First, an HID bulb is just that.....a bulb. It produces more light with a whiter color. The point of the ballast and igniter is to transform the normal electrical current to be compatible with the electrical current required by the HID bulb.

Second, the ballasts are pretty big. I wouldn't be able to fit a power commander under my rear seat even if I wanted to. The ballasts take up a lot of space. But, the newer HID kits offer a smaller ballast with built-in igniters, so if it's space you want, you'll have to pony up some $$$.

Third, wire loom is perfectly fine to use. The factory harnesses are in wire loom from Honda, and my Dodge has it's harnesses in wire loom from the factory as well, so it's fine to use. They're will not be any problems using it on our bikes. (and I KNOW our bikes don't vibrate as much as a helicopter.)
Blue Fox
2/27/2007 1:25:33 PM

UPDATE:

Just posted another update (probably the last) showing how I cleaned up the wirey mess under my rear seat. Soldered, loomed and tucked neatly and professionally. I'm now proud of this HID installation.
soonster
2/28/2007 1:40:13 PM
Thanks BlueFox for the follow up.  I'll find some time to have it done this coming month.  Hopefully it'll be as easy as you had described.

dragonium25
3/1/2007 8:02:01 PM
Just hooked up my HIDs, what a difference.  Got the 8000K and they are badass.  I have the newer generation ones so there isn't a separate igniter, just a ballast and bulb.  Still have to figure out where I'm gonna mount my ballasts, don't have any trunk space due to my PCIII and my alarm back there.  Once I get my bike put back together (it's still in pieces due to all my winter projects) I'll put up a new post with some pics.
Blue Fox
3/2/2007 12:48:02 AM

quote:

ORIGINAL: dragonium25

Just hooked up my HIDs, what a difference.  Got the 8000K and they are badass.  I have the newer generation ones so there isn't a separate igniter, just a ballast and bulb.  Still have to figure out where I'm gonna mount my ballasts, don't have any trunk space due to my PCIII and my alarm back there.  Once I get my bike put back together (it's still in pieces due to all my winter projects) I'll put up a new post with some pics.


DEFINATELY post pictures of that when you get done. FYI....you "might" be able to mount the ballasts (if they're small enough) under the intake covers....(same place I mounted my igniters).

Reason........The wire that goes from the ballast to the bulb are high-voltage silicone wires. I don't have ANY experience with these wires other than just about every automotive electrician said to NEVER cut those wires. They told me that if I needed to extend them, I would have to have an extention harness made made or find extention wires with the proper connections on them. (That's the reason my extended harness I made only used the good ol' fashioned "primary" wire found in cars.) That's also the reason I HAD to mount my igniters up front. (lot of reasons if you haven't noticed yet.....)

Good luck man, get those pics up soon, I want to see!
dragonium25
3/2/2007 1:28:48 AM
Yeah I wasn't planning on cutting any wires at all.  I was thinking of putting them just behind the fairings, but not sure if they'll fit or how they'll stay on.  Gonna have to tinker a bit.  Here's some pics though...

(no camera flash)

Thumbnail Image


(with camera flash)


Thumbnail Image
Blue Fox
3/2/2007 2:02:22 AM
Ohhhh, pretty. Love em'. Did you have any probems with the H7's not fitting (needing to trim the base of the headlight?). If it's a newer model, I doubt it, but my generic kit required me to.
dragonium25
3/2/2007 3:21:27 AM
No problems, they fit flush right in.  The only thing I had to change was that I had to pull the +ve and -ve connecting wires out of the rubber gasket which held the bulbs.  Here's what it looks like without the ballasts connected:
 
So if I wanted to remove my HIDs and put my other bulbs in, say for a track day, I can just swap them out in like 2 mins.


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