Hotbodies Flush Mount FIX!

I just got the Hotbodies Flush Mount signals and was disappointed to find that they didn't work as running lights also. I really wanted to keep the running lights for the sake of visibility, so I thought about it overnight and came up with a plan. I looked more closely at the wiring this morning and ended up installing relays in the signal wiring that allows the Hotbodies to work as running lights as well as blinkers. If there's interest in it, I'll put together a how-to on it. Cost under $10.

Check the video to see them work. (obviously still some work to be done) Hotbodies Flush Mounts w/fix

Hey, I'd like to know how you did it. Most aftermarket turn signals are only two-wired so you can't have running lights. But I'd like to have the running light option for safety as well.

There are plenty of dual filament signals available from exoticsportbike.com. That's where I got mine.

That's true, but I haven't found any that fit as perfectly as the Hotbodies.

I really like the way they are made to fit within the contours of the fairing and aren't just a universal "stick-on" like so many-- the last ones I had were like this.

Anyway, I have decided to go ahead and create a "how-to" on this one for those who like the look of the hotbodies (or any other single filament style) but still want the security (even if it's purely psychological) of running lights. I won't just keep it all to myself! Keep an eye out for it in the next day or two!

lol, twist both the positive wires together and stick them to the single positive. pretty easy if you ask me. When the blinker wire comes on, it cuts out the running light wire.

When I do that on the f4i the indicators on the display remain on. It would be riding with two bright yellow lights on the dash all the time. Is this also the case for you?

Yeah, my dash lights stay on. But I got used to it, seams like they were supposed to be on now.

Lets see if you did it the same way I was thinking: 85-ground, 86 turn signal input, 30 constant, 87a turn signal output. And you did 1 relay per side.

mxman87--I think that would work, but if I'm reading your notes right, that relies on the aftermarket relay to do the flashing and I wanted to avoid that. It's the same relay, and yes, one per side, but wired in a way that uses the relay only when the signal is turned on or off.

BigWill--Maybe a person gets used to the lights on, but I'd rather have as few lights on the display as possible. (i.e. only when needed)

Just give me a little longer and I'll type up the how-to!

Yeah I'm not a fan of BigWill's method and having to have the dash turn signals on. I'll just wait for your jjb

The way I have it, it would use the normally closed contacts to run the running lights and then it would turn off (flash) when the relay opens. This way the relay only operates when the signal is on.

Okay, I think I see what you're saying, but that leaves both the blinker and the running lights on at the same time which results in the always-on dash lights.

It keeps them isolated from each other. 30 and 87a are normally closed so if you hook up the running light to 30 and 87a out to the signal then they will normally stay on. When you hit the turn signal it will open the circuit and cause them to flash off.

try this link. it has a wiring diagram so showing diodes in place so you can hook up the running lights and the turn signal wire to the same line and not get back flow of current

http://hooliganbiketech.dynup.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_Mods/1000RR_mototeck/mototeckwiringdiagwithrunninglightdiodefix.htm

looks like the diode method takes the cake over any relay method. Just goes to show what happens when a guy without much education in electronics (me) tries to fix a problem...

mxman87-- I think that once you get in there and try your idea out you'll see that the wiring is not like what you're thinking.


Besides, the method used in the link baxsom provided is a much simpler and efficient method.

I just got used to the dash lights on LoL

I can't believe I didn't think of the diode, seeing as I have to at least do some diode isolating on most of the alarms I do.

And where can we find these wonderful, magical diodes?

radio shack, or go into your local best buy, circuit city, quality auto sound, and ask an installer to hook you up.

quote:

ORIGINAL: jjbtao
looks like the diode method takes the cake over any relay method.

Yea that is exactly what I did... a couple diodes and resistors and it was good to go. They still blink rather quickly but I don't mind that at all.

Can anyone post pics of their wiring set-up with the resistors and diodes?

Well now that I've got 'em all covered up with shrink tubing you wouldn't be able to see much. But that link above is a pretty good diagram of how to set up the circuit - the only thing I added was a resistor to the turn signal lead (this will help slow the blinker down a bit). Resistors are pretty cheap so get a few different sizes (1k, 2k, 5k, 10k ohm) to get the flash rate where you want it.

Sorry I can't get you any pics...

Okay, so it's not a photograph, but a little more visually representative of what it looks like. I switched one side of my bike over to the diode method, so I now have one side with a relay and the other with the diodes. They both work exactly the same, you can just hear the faint "click" of the relay on one side.

If you're comfortable with basic wiring (i.e. soldering) this is an easy one. 2 "1N5400" diodes from radioshack(per side). Just be sure to shrink wrap everything to avoid shorts circuits!

If you don't want to use the plug you can just solder the red wire from the aftermarket blinkers directly to the two diodes and the black wire directly to the green.





adapted from:
http://hooliganbiketech.dynup.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_Mods/1000RR_mototeck/mototeckwiringdiagwithrunninglightdiodefix.htm

Do you have to solder or can you simply splice the diodes and wires together and then wrap it with electrical tape?

BTW, thank your kid for that great drawing

um... yeah... I'll be sure to thank my ...um... kid, yeah, that's it... my kid made that drawing..

No, you don't have to use solder, use whatever you'd like. Solder's just the best option. The diode leads are solid, though, so you'll need some sort of crimp connector, the old "twist and tape" method probably won't hold long at all. I'm sure others will jump all over you for it, but hey, if you don't have the tools or the skills, use whatever you got. It may rattle loose over time, so just keep an eye on it and you'll be fine.

A buddy of mine back in middle school used to use hot glue to connect wires... he could never figure out why his RC car wouldn't run right...