low end engine lag - Page 2

Did you disconnect the battery for thirty minutes? That will reset the computer so that the bike will accept the new mods. I am probably going to get flammed but here is how it was explained to me. A stock bike already broken in will operate just fine. Add a aftermarket muffler (which is suppose to increase air output) the bike will still think it has the stock pipe on and run normally. Performance is not what you expected so blank out the brain and make it relearn how to operate with the new mod. In your case do it after every mod you perform. Maybe somebody with technical knowledge can enlighten me but it make sence and wasn't that hard to perform.

I'm only aware of a few expensive cars that "learn" how you drive ... didn't know any bikes had that technology. Pulling the battery for 30 minutes certainly won't hurt anything but I have doubts that it'll really help either. Mine has really come alive on the low end since removing the hardware flapper stuff.

i think the lag had something to do with the little flapper in the OEM pipe. i am thinking about taking the bike in to get it dyno'ed since the pipe and power commander addition.

You did put the mid pipe provided by Jardine. With thier pipe you will eliminate the exhaust valve.

right. i meant that the lack of the valve (backpressure) is what started the whole thing, when i changed the pipe

Sorry about that. Maybe dial up your clutch so that it engages sooner? Just throwing things out there seeing if something works.

I've read that the closest map for the Jardine is the map for the Erion. This will clean up your bottom end right from the get go.

i wroter to tech support at power commander. they told me to use the micron. dont get me wrong, the bike runs fine above about 2.5k, but, unless i am pegging it off the start and slipping the clutch more than usual, it starts real slow and has to work past a big dead spot before the power kicks in. it isnt the end of the world, but it never did that with the stock pipe. nor did any of my friends. it has to have something to do with the pipe. is there anyway i can add a little back pressure just to the bottem end?

Sounds like its runnin lean before 2500 revs, either use the buttons to richen it up a tad or if you look at your map your using on the computer you can change the fueling by increments of 250 rpm richen the map a little for under 2500 revs and see how it runs,

I'd be inclined to think it's a bit rich down low. The last two bike I put a PCII on with a pipe were spot on from 4K up but rich as hell down low. Either way, too rich or lean, and it's not gonna perform at its best. This is something that would bug the she-yat outta me til I figured it out.

Usually too rich (too much fuel) down low will cause it to bog. Leaner is faster, till you blow her up!

i tried leaning and richening it up with the buttons. leaning didnt do much, but richening it up even a little caused it to have some pop in the exhaust. i cant fully tell if it is rich or lean. i would think rich, due to flowing more air now with the exhaust and not changing much to the fuel. all i have done was add the power commander and load the map. will it change anything differently if i change it on the map instead of the buttons? give me some ideas. what about all the numbers on the map? im guessing the bigger # flows more fuel and smaller is less. should i just tinker with the numbers one at a time and see what they do? i do know that the lower settings are at 0.

This is the area where a sniffer on a dyno is a wonderful thing. I suggest reloading the map and then adding fuel 10 at a time below 3K rpms and see how it runs. If it gets more lag then go the other way. The buttons are practically useless and have a tendency to do weird things to your entire map. I don't even know why they put them on there. So the best of all worlds would be a custom dyno map with A/F ratio but if you just mess with the below 3K rpm setting you should be o.k.

sweet, thats tomorrows project