STATOR RECALL - Page 2

Here's the deal...  The stator (in conjunction with the regulator/rectifier) will charge the battery at ANY engine speed.  That's right, at idle my '07 will keep the battery at 14.0 volts with the high beam and brake light on.  Unless you have power-hungry 12V accessories, there's no need to run a higher RPM to keep the battery charged.  Of course max current output of the charging system will occur at a higher engine speed, but that's not needed to run the normal systems and keep the battery charged.  Rest assured, the stator is working all the time.
 
As for the stator overheating issue, I can only think of two reasons why a higher RPM would help-
 
1. The regulator/rectifier uses a buck/boost or other switching power circuit topology, meaning that for a given output current on the DC side of the regulator/rectifier, the AC current supplied by the stator windings would decrease as RPM (and stator voltage) increases. 
 
2. If the regulator/rectifier is of a simpler design, maybe the extra "windage" from the rotor would help cool the stator windings.
 
The one thing I know for sure is that no motorcycle in the history of mankind has ever put out 13.9 kVA.  :)  That's got to be a typo...
 
 

jorge13:

A fully charged battery on the CBR1000 is 13-13.2 VDC according to the manual. This means a stator that puts out anything above this is good to go. The point of my question is not whether the stator is charging or not. I want to know at what consistent "low RPM range" the stator tends FAIL. I am trying to avoid being stranded somewhere by better understanding what causes stator failures.
 
I appreciate the input Mene, but just because a stator is charging at 2500 RPM, it does not mean it's not heating up. The letter says that it "may" fail when operated at "low RPM range" for "extended period of time."

SD2000
surprised ya should say that about 13.9 since i was led to believe that 13.5-15.5 is considered normal for the charging system ... any lower and it messed up the stator, any higher and it goes for the rectifier/regulator

2Wheels
i guess i am going to have start riding a LOT harder then

quote:

ORIGINAL: menefreghista

SD2000
surprised ya should say that about 13.9 since i was led to believe that 13.5-15.5 is considered normal for the charging system ... any lower and it messed up the stator, any higher and it goes for the rectifier/regulator

 
Ahh...  I should have guessed you meant volts, not kVA.  13.9 volts makes much more sense, and I'd agree that's a normal running voltage.
 
For what it's worth, kVA in the electrical world is kilo volt-amps.  At 12V, an output of 13.9 kVA would give you a current of 1158 amps!  That's why I kind of freaked out...

But the letter also states that its purpose is for bikes that do not have non-factory accessorys and has no accident damage. So if you changed your turn signlas or if you accentally had your bike droped in a parking lot what are you just voided from this extended warranty?

This whole thing is scaring the hell out of me!! I have an '04 with only about 3200 miles on it; I have aftermarket signals in the front and rear and the taillight has the integrated signals. Also, my bike was in a minor accident. Should I be worried by all this?? I've been hearing about the stator issues for awhile, but mine is perfectly fine. Does it just crap out all of sudden, or does the charging ability slowly diminish over time??

I don't mean to change the topic, but for those of us affected by the warranty that still have operating stators, is there a way to "kill" the stator in a manner that the stealer would not be able to recognize so as to be able to have it replaced BEFORE we are stranded somewhere?  It seems as though there are some cases where the stator shows warning signs like hard/slow start but that some cases have been without warning and left riders stranded in very inconvenient places.  To my best knowledge, the new parts are slightly different and would seem to be a "permanent" fix.  I could be wrong on that in which case I guess it wouldn't matter whether I have an old one or a new one.  Since I will have downtime in the winter anyway, it would be awfully convenient if the stator could fail on my schedule instead of it's own.

Some things to consider before trying this-
 
1. How much better are the newer parts?  '06 and '07 models are having stator problems too, I'm not convinced the replacement parts would be substantially better than the ones you have now.
2. How likely is the dealer to suspect foul play?  The stator has several poles on it and if the normal failure consistently burns specific poles of the stator, a savvy mechanic will be suspicious if they've done several previous repairs.  A bike that "broke down" at home might raise suspicions as well.  If Honda examines the returned parts, they'll likely figure out what happened.
 
If you're going to attempt to toast only the stator and not the regulator or any part of the wiring, you'll need to have a good understanding of electricity basics and at least a general understanding of how the charging system works.  Does that sound like you?  If not, you could end up with melted wires and evidence of arc flash at the harness connectors, in which case it's game over...
 

i had mine replaced two thousand miles ago. and it failed again on sunday. at a gas station, thirty miles from home. inconvenient. the tech at my dealer said it had "insulation breakdown" whatever that means.  the original owner of this bike had put 12k miles on it and never had a breakdown. there was no history of that bike getting the stator replaced. since i bought the bike i installed rear blinkers(led's) only, the fronts were already there. so, my question is this....should i remove those new blinkers? are they creating some kind of voltage drop? and finally, how did i get 2 "bad" stators? 
  

If you get stuck somewhere, you can boost or bump start it.  It happened twice to me before I realized the actual problem.  The first time, I was parked on a hill and was able to pop it in third gear and that allowed me to ride 50miles all the way home.  I was worried I would make it, but I did.  The second time, I boosted it and it will start as per normal.  When I started riding home, if I rode my bike under 6000rpm, the bike started jerking like it was running out of gas, scary...But again, I got home. 
I got mine replaced a few months ago, and so far so good.  If you're bike starts to crank slower and you're riding it regularly, that's a good sign the startor is going...

quote:

ORIGINAL: guyomatic

that's a good sign the startor is going...

 
I mean stator...sorry. 

quote:

ORIGINAL: mariano en fuego

i had mine replaced two thousand miles ago. and it failed again on sunday. at a gas station, thirty miles from home. inconvenient. the tech at my dealer said it had "insulation breakdown" whatever that means.  the original owner of this bike had put 12k miles on it and never had a breakdown. there was no history of that bike getting the stator replaced. since i bought the bike i installed rear blinkers(led's) only, the fronts were already there. so, my question is this....should i remove those new blinkers? are they creating some kind of voltage drop? and finally, how did i get 2 "bad" stators? 
 

 
When you replaced the stator 2000 miles ago did you replace the regulator too? 

.

Good Point. From what I understand, when the stator goes out, it puts a strain on the rectifier and causes it to goes out as well. Once you get a new stator/rectifier, or if yours is still good, make sure you ride your bike above 5000 RPM as much as possible. This does not mean you need to go fast. Just use the proper gear to get the motor turning at or above 5000 RPM.

Ive got a 05 with only 6000 miles which i got all of a month ago and I am currently experiencing this problem, spose it shows that the bike has been ridden by a nana before me.
Since i did not research the problem when it happend i brought a new battery and a new reg/rectifier and the super reliable honda still wont start.
So i printed off the letter from honda and took it into my local, they want me to bring the bike in, hopefully the wont care about the aftermarket indicators.
Can someone please post a copy of the refund form from Honda so that i can get my money back for replacing the parts already?
Thanks

i don't think the dealer did change the regulator with it....? they did say that they changed the flywheel? what the hell does that have to do with a stator? listen, i'm no mechanic, so i only know what the tell me. but, this is pissing me off. i've had kawasaki's up until i bought this bike and i was used to having issues with them. but the reason i bought this was that everyone said that honda was so reliable....yeah right. don't get me wrong, when it's running it is a great machine.. but two times in two months is getting old already. and it broke down a week before bike week....and i live in daytona !!!!!!!!! so i missed this weekend, and i'm waiting for parts to come in, then they have to do the swap. i may not be able to ride until tuesday or wenesday.WTF. 

Well, bikes all fixed, they replaced the stator and the guys didnt care about my aftermarket indicators so that was good. Hopefully it wont happen again soon. They had never heard of the problem, so maybe its not such a big thing over here in little old New Zealand. I would still like to try and get a copy of the refund form from someone please, $400 for battery and regulator would be great to try and get back. cheers

Hello, I'm new here but I have a question.  My bike's stator (2004 Honda CBR 1000RR) failed late last year and I got one from ElectroSport Industries.  After I installed it I took the bike for a ride and the battery died on me again.  First I thought it was the RR unit, so I replaced it with one from Electrosport Industries.  I took the bike for a ride again, and again the battery died on me.  Can anybody tell me what is wrong with my bike?

Did you take it to the dealer... let them figure it out at their cost !!!