Tipover sensor

Anybody know off hand which wires to jumper in order to get rid of this piece of dead weight?

No, but i`d like to know also because mine is currently taped to my fairing bracket while the race fairing is on. Because i couldn`t work out how to take it off without the ecu having a spaz on me.

Looked at the schematic and the r/bu goes to the engine cutoff switch but I'm uncertain if it's a normal switch. Bastard is fused so I'm thinking it might send some modified current to the switch relay. It's a pain hooking everything up and trying out different combos.

Hey Anubis, how about being the guinea pig I'm thinkin you jumper the green and red/blue with a 60K ohm resistor and you'll be good to go. I'll try it out me self when I start puttin stuff back together and let ya know. It may be a couple-o-days before I get to it so if you're able to test my theory let me know if it works. Geez, sanding down all the body work is a pain in the arse -- but when it finally warms up I'll be ready to paint with minimal delay

I dont remmember whicj one it was, but I just cut my sensor off and splice 2 of the wires together and it works fine..worst case you will blow a fuse trying to find the right combo

What are you sanding for Chain? Repairs? or just paint job. I`m at it to my fairing lowers are going gloss black..



Gonecrazy, which wires? The thing that put me off was i disconnected the sensor and then the Ecu refused to operate anything else, fuel pump and clocks etc.

It would be the two outside wires. The middle wire only has continuity when the sensor is tipped. And I'm sanding for the big paint job come springtime -- just got tired of black/silver -- I've had black and silver bikes for over 6 years now. I'm not taking it down to the plastic ... just taking off the clear coat, scuffing the paint and smoothing out the small rock dings. Had one crack on the right side where the old blinker stalk used to be -- I believe some dumbass at work bumped it and the plastic cracked. Epoxyed both sides and sanded it. With the Gregg's flush blinks I got now it shouldn't be a problem anymore.

I would leave that there if i was you.

If anybody is into lbs off the bike it's me but for the safety that it provides...I'm keeping it.

Just imagine your bike on the side still running, where do you think that the oil it's going to go?....I'll tell you; up the breather into your intake, since all the oil it's going to be on one side of the engine and not the oil pan, the top end it's going to run dry and the piston (#1 or #4) will suck up the oil up and lock up your engine.

can you picture that?...graphic ain't it??

OUch, kinda expensive that would be, What colour ya goin chain?

The way I ride a crash would most likely total the bike anyway -- and possibly me too But the stupid thing is also kinda in the way. They coulda found a better place.

And color is gonna be daytona electric metallic blue with telefonica movistar stickers from all out graphics.

Wise choice, Can`t wait to see the results,

Where is this waste of weight peice on yall's bike?

It's prolly only 6-8oz but it covers the last 2 nuts required to remove the nose section from the lights.

You cannot remove the Tip switch and bridge the wires. Doing so makes the computer run in default mode, costing at least 7hp on the top end. The self diagnostics dont see the proper signal with the stock ECU in place, and there is no way to bypass it.

You can run the Kit ECU ($360) and fit the Kit Tip Switch ($about $100) this will save some weight.

There are LOTS of ways to save weight, while keeping the bike running right!