RE: Chains
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RE: Chains - 12/10/2004 5:34:46 PM
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Mikey
Posts: 20
Joined: 12/9/2004
Status: offline
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So what's the performance difference if I go from a 43 rear tooth to a 44? Would I have to increase my chain length?
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RE: Chains - 12/10/2004 6:16:56 PM
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sirlimpzalot
Posts: 1404
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Roseville, CA
Status: offline
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1 tooth isnt usually a problem...more than 3 though might require a longer chain. BUt intead of going up in the rear, try going down in the front. down 1 is equal to adding 3-4 teeth in the rear and then you have too much chain instead of not enough
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RE: Chains - 12/10/2004 6:22:35 PM
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sirlimpzalot
Posts: 1404
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Roseville, CA
Status: offline
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1 tooth is barely even noticeable....the bigger you go in the rear ( or smaller in he front) will limit your top speed and increase your acceleration. And as a side note...if you have a bike that the speedo is driven off the transmission any change you make will affect the accuracy of the speedometer. So your MPH is reading to fast and your miles add up much quicker
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RE: Chains - 12/13/2004 3:18:17 PM
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Mikey
Posts: 20
Joined: 12/9/2004
Status: offline
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So I went to the store to pick up the pliers, and on the website they're like $28,... good old retailers at $55!!! I thought that the mark up was a bit ridiculous and decided not to purchase them there! Do I have an alternative to these in order to get the chain on? I need something to spread the link, and put the master link in, and then secure it down. I'm lost in this stupid project! AHH!
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RE: Chains - 12/13/2004 5:51:08 PM
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Mikey
Posts: 20
Joined: 12/9/2004
Status: offline
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So everyone can laugh at me now because I spent $130 on the chain breaker and riviting tool set and the chain press. Wednesday night all the tools and sprockets should arrive and there will be a bike buiding party in my garage (everyone is invited of course). I'll bring my difficulties to those around Wednesday night!
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RE: Chains - 12/13/2004 6:38:27 PM
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chainstretcher
Posts: 4158
Joined: 11/5/2004
Status: offline
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Dude, don't spaz -- you'll do fine. When I get a minute I'll take a pic of my masterlink so you know what it should look like when you're done. The $$$ spent is incidental -- you'd have spent that much to have a shop do it one time. So they'll pay for themselves the first time you use them.
Here's a question for you: does you have a 6" in/out caliper to measure the side plate distance? If not go get one. Lowe's has them cheap. Other than that it sounds like you got all the tools you'll need.
_____________________________
It's better to burn out ...
Than high side!
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RE: Chains - 12/13/2004 7:57:16 PM
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chainstretcher
Posts: 4158
Joined: 11/5/2004
Status: offline
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Not that much really. For me I just use the motion pro (got a link for it somewhere) chain tool. It serves as a breaker, press and riveter. Only other tool is 6" caliper to measure plates (to make sure you don't press it in too much).
Put the new chain on the new sprockets so that you can put it together in the middle on top. Make sure o-ring on master has grease on it (supplied with master link). Connect chain with master -- should slide right in. Put greased o-rings on the other side. Put side plate on master -- should go on a little bit then get tight. Take 2-3 measurements of other links and get the outside distance of the side plates. Use press to push side plate on the master. A little at a time and then measure at both pins to make sure it's even. Once you have the side plates the correct distance, use the riveting tool to mash the end of the master. Don't go nuts on this step - the ends can be cracked. You rivet one pin at a time and theres an insert for the tool that fits over the back of the master to keep from pushing the plates closer. Basically you're using the tool to press only the pin when riveting -- not the plate.
I swear it'll take you less time to do the deed than it did to read my lame explanation.
Only addition is when you get ready for a new chain, use a dremel to grind down the pins flush with the plate to make it easier on the breaker. I've broken a breaker because I didn't grind down the pins.
_____________________________
It's better to burn out ...
Than high side!
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RE: Chains - 12/14/2004 7:03:12 AM
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chainstretcher
Posts: 4158
Joined: 11/5/2004
Status: offline
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Here ya go -- perfectly riveted chain ...
_____________________________
It's better to burn out ...
Than high side!
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RE: Chains - 12/16/2004 9:48:24 AM
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Mikey
Posts: 20
Joined: 12/9/2004
Status: offline
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Alright, so you knew something would go wrong, and for everyone that doesn't know me, I am now officially classified as a dumbass. Oh yes, I own that title. To recap: Sprockets- no problem. If you can turn a wrench, you can change sprockets. As for the chain, I dumbassedly broke the chain in the wrong spot so now I have a male end and a female end, instead of two male ends to connect with the masterlink. To solve this dilema, I can up with two possibilities: 1) buy a new chain and do it right (upside- I get it done today; downside- $100, extra chain that's too short laying around) or 2) buy a new sprocket with less teeth (upside- $60; downside- unsure if it will work, minimum of 3 more days with the bike down, chain with 106 links instead of 108). A third option that I've come up with is IF they sell pins that I can rivet to add another link to, that would be both econimical and somewhat easy. So there is no need for namecalling because I'm already depressed (don't kick me while I'm down), simply give me your thoughts and solutions and I will appreciate that!
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