BHP
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BHP - 8/15/2006 5:40:55 AM
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YIGAL
Posts: 9
Joined: 8/4/2006
Status: offline
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Hi to all
I recently bought a 1990 CBR 1000F and would like to know exactly how much bhp does she have?
Researching the net brought answers that range from 100-bhp through 111 to 136-bhp which figure is right?
Ride safe
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RE: BHP - 8/15/2006 10:49:01 AM
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TimBucTwo
Posts: 528
Joined: 6/13/2006
From: Upstate NY, USA
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This is from a book that I have.
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RE: BHP - 8/15/2006 10:57:38 AM
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malbojah
Posts: 371
Joined: 3/10/2006
From: Cape Cod, MA
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The 135 number I've always related to being crank HP, while other places have listed around 100 wheel HP
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RE: BHP - 8/15/2006 11:36:35 AM
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slowpoke
Posts: 518
Joined: 8/6/2005
From: Denver, Colorado
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When Cycle (RIP) tested it in 1991, they got 105.9 on the dyno.
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RE: BHP - 8/15/2006 1:34:39 PM
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YIGAL
Posts: 9
Joined: 8/4/2006
Status: offline
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Tx guys
one thing us certain the beast is powerful
Ride safe
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RE: BHP - 8/16/2006 12:21:29 PM
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R1000
Posts: 1119
Joined: 1/30/2006
From: Sweden
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quote:
ORIGINAL: YIGAL
Hi to all
I recently bought a 1990 CBR 1000F and would like to know exactly how much bhp does she have?
Researching the net brought answers that range from 100-bhp through 111 to 136-bhp which figure is right?
Ride safe
The bike was restricted to 100 hp on some markets and delivered 135 hp (on crank) on non-restricted markets. The restriction, in case it is still there, is simple to remove by changing intake rubbers or carve them up to full diameter. The rear wheel hp should be around 12 % to 15 % below crank power, i.e. about 115 to 118 rwhp on full power bikes. By adding a better flowing exhaust system, the rwhp can go up to almost 130 hp, which is impressive by any measures.
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RE: BHP - 8/16/2006 12:44:12 PM
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TimBucTwo
Posts: 528
Joined: 6/13/2006
From: Upstate NY, USA
Status: offline
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[/quote]
The bike was restricted to 100 hp on some markets and delivered 135 hp (on crank) on non-restricted markets. The restriction, in case it is still there, is simple to remove by changing intake rubbers or carve them up to full diameter. The rear wheel hp should be around 12 % to 15 % below crank power, i.e. about 115 to 118 rwhp on full power bikes. By adding a better flowing exhaust system, the rwhp can go up to almost 130 hp, which is impressive by any measures.
[/quote]
That reminds me, here in the states, the California bikes had emissions and lesser HP.
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RE: BHP - 8/17/2006 11:03:56 PM
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Illushun
Posts: 745
Joined: 3/26/2006
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Timbuctwo, your right! Isn't that why they have the different letters at the end of the model/vin? When sitting on the bike, there's a model sticker on the left innner side of the frame near the battery box that has the model followed by and ending letter such as CBR1000F-R, or J, or L, etc...
R1000, can you give more detail about you stating that the inner diameter of the carb boot can be carved out? I have looked through the haynes service manual and could not get a specific illustration showing the carb intake boots. I could take them off to inspect, but thought you might be willing to go into more detail of the process. I have a bunch of questions like, what it the thickness of the carb boot, how much do you carve out, what method do you use, can you use a dremmel (rotary tool with appropriate grit paper), would rifleing (spelling?) or smooth bore be a variable?
As long as any modifications one does to their bike, would the percent increase that each component offers, now grow, somewhat, exponentially?
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RE: BHP - 8/17/2006 11:36:45 PM
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Stray Cat
Posts: 313
Joined: 6/5/2006
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I have three letters for you all that don't think there is enough ponies.....
NOS 
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RE: BHP - 8/18/2006 8:13:04 AM
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peterk
Posts: 152
Joined: 6/16/2006
From: Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia
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R1000 I also am interested in more details about the intake rubbers if you are able to get off the new 'Bird', thanks
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RE: BHP - 8/18/2006 11:57:54 AM
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R1000
Posts: 1119
Joined: 1/30/2006
From: Sweden
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Illushun
Timbuctwo, your right! Isn't that why they have the different letters at the end of the model/vin? When sitting on the bike, there's a model sticker on the left innner side of the frame near the battery box that has the model followed by and ending letter such as CBR1000F-R, or J, or L, etc...
R1000, can you give more detail about you stating that the inner diameter of the carb boot can be carved out? I have looked through the haynes service manual and could not get a specific illustration showing the carb intake boots. I could take them off to inspect, but thought you might be willing to go into more detail of the process. I have a bunch of questions like, what it the thickness of the carb boot, how much do you carve out, what method do you use, can you use a dremmel (rotary tool with appropriate grit paper), would rifleing (spelling?) or smooth bore be a variable?
As long as any modifications one does to their bike, would the percent increase that each component offers, now grow, somewhat, exponentially?
The intake intake boots (hoses) are made of synthetic black rubber about 4 mm thick and 40 mm diameter. On restricted bikes the inside diameter is reduced in the middle of the boot, between the carb flange and the head flange. Just cut it away with a sharp knife or scalpel so the diameter is the same thrue the boot. You need to pull the carbs of course. The easiest way to check if the bike is still restricted, without pulling carbs, I guess would be to measure the top speed with GPS. It should run about 255 km/h unrestricted with stock gearing. If restricted from 135 to 100 hp, the top speed would go down about 10%.
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RE: BHP - 5/8/2008 10:15:25 PM
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Shadow1
Posts: 1990
Joined: 12/21/2007
From: Pinetown, South Africa
Status: offline
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The letters on the sticker under the saddle denote the model year, Illushun. The engine number will have an E on the end, ie SC24E for the California model, which had all the emission control goodies, and cut the power down a good deal - needless to say, all that stuff went over the fence and off my bike years ago, and she now runs like everyone else's (and faster than some)
Some say 125 HP, some 133 HP, but that's at the crank, I believe. True rear wheel BHP is around 110 on my bike, with a couple of minor mods like pipes, K&N filter, and a Dyno Jet kit.
It's enough (for now)
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