Front Forks
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Front Forks - 5/11/2007 12:25:54 PM
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1000FFreakyFast
Posts: 17
Joined: 12/13/2006
Status: offline
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Hey Guys,
I was wondering if I needed to do some sort of service on my front forks or not. My 1kF seems to be really cushy and soft when it comes to the forks. Is this common on the F's? Or would I need to start thinking about doing some sort of service on them?
Thanx
1000FFreakyFast
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RE: Front Forks - 5/11/2007 4:50:50 PM
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honda502
Posts: 179
Joined: 4/18/2007
Status: offline
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When mine were feeling a little bouncy in the corners I opened the fork drain plugs and bounced the front end until they were empty. Then I lifted the front end with an engine hoist and removed the caps and refilled them with new fluid. It helped quite a bit.
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2002 CBR600F4i, All Stock
1998 VFR800, Staintune High Mount Exhaust, K&N Air Filter
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RE: Front Forks - 5/12/2007 1:44:02 AM
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weekendrider
Posts: 349
Joined: 10/27/2006
From: BRISBANE.QLD.AUSTRALIA
Status: offline
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I put 2.50 inch spacers in my 88 with 15 weight oil it made it stiff,but better to ride in the turns. I was told by a bike shop bloke to set the front end up ,so the front forks are at full out with no one on the bike. It makes mine more forgiving to ride hard and less feedback to my hands.
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RE: Front Forks - 5/21/2007 3:07:32 AM
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trispeed
Posts: 9
Joined: 5/21/2007
Status: offline
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You'll want 1.25- 1.5 inches of sag with the rider aboard.
Adding spacers to the (soft) stock springs can achieve that, though the actual spring rate will still be too soft. Lots of front end dive, etc.
'Works Performance', here in the States recommended a 48/ 80 lb. spring kit and 10wt oil. that gets the sag recommended as well as creating a wonderfully compliant and controlled fork.
< Message edited by trispeed -- 5/22/2007 6:31:01 AM >
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RE: Front Forks - 5/21/2007 9:10:10 PM
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weekendrider
Posts: 349
Joined: 10/27/2006
From: BRISBANE.QLD.AUSTRALIA
Status: offline
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Do you have a front end shake when you let go of the bars at slow speed....john
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RE: Front Forks - 5/22/2007 6:31:27 AM
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trispeed
Posts: 9
Joined: 5/21/2007
Status: offline
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nope,tracks straight and true, no matter what i do.
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RE: Front Forks - 5/24/2007 12:17:39 AM
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yas001
Posts: 173
Joined: 9/5/2006
From: Capital of North Carolina, USA
Status: offline
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My 87 Cane had front vibration before I chagned the tires. When you ride with low pressure long time, tire wears and makes a wave on the tread. That wave makes vibration on the certain speed. Mine was about 45 - 50 mph. It was OK on higher speed. First, check your tire pressure. If there is no wave appears on the tread yet, you may be OK. Good luck!
Yas
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RE: Front Forks - 5/24/2007 2:09:11 PM
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dad
Posts: 296
Joined: 11/6/2005
From: Pittsburgh Pennsylvania
Status: offline
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Based on 1990 and up models with fixed cartridge front ends. The static sag (rider aboard) is often too great. Measure that number and if it's not in the 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" range, figure the change required, remove the cap and spring according to the service manual, and make new spacers that are longer directly by whatever the measurements dictate. Drain the oil and re-fill with 10 weight, measuring the oil level with the spring out, from the top of the tube to the level of the oil, fork tube in the fully compressed position. The stock setting is 6 7/8" down from the top. Raise that level to 4 3/4" down from the top and it will tremendously aid in preventing bottoming out on hard braking. It makes the air spring much more progressive while leaving the normal travel range fairly compliant. Anything more than that will require at least new springs. Just follow all normal procedures as outlined in the service manual for this work except using the new fork oil level and new spacer lengths.
This is what I did on mine at about 27,000 miles on the clock. I now have 122,000 miles on it but have never altered those settings during routine maintenance. That includes VERY aggressive riding, especially on the track. It would be better with the proper springs but is decent as described. BTW, I'm 200 lbs and my memory says I needed spacers that were 5/8" longer than stock to achieve a 1 3/8" static sag.
< Message edited by dad -- 5/24/2007 2:16:03 PM >
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RE: Front Forks - 5/24/2007 8:43:41 PM
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weekendrider
Posts: 349
Joined: 10/27/2006
From: BRISBANE.QLD.AUSTRALIA
Status: offline
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Would it make the bike better to change the head set bearings from ball to taped
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RE: Front Forks - 5/24/2007 10:05:21 PM
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cb2cbr
Posts: 103
Joined: 11/18/2005
Status: offline
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While I'm a little lighter than DAD, 170 vs 200, I used the same 5/8" spacer addition as DAD. I don't recall the exact oil level, it was about an inch more air space than Dad with 15 weight oil. Much of my riding is two up and I have full 3pc. hard GIVI bags. I also install tapered roller bearings this year. The original ball was slightly detented and dry so the new tapered rollers feel sweet. If the ball type had been in better shape I'd say 6 of 1....
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cb2cbr
1979 CB750F one owner-me
1994 CBR1000F
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RE: Front Forks - 5/25/2007 12:32:22 AM
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Trips
Posts: 801
Joined: 3/31/2005
From: Perth (Western Australia)
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: weekendrider
Would it make the bike better to change the head set bearings from ball to taped
Only if they are worn.
Ball are actually much smoother. Thats why a lot of manufacturers still use them, but they dont last long and are not very strong.
As a rule I replace all bearings every few years as its cheap insurance.
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Remember the light at the end of the tunnel may be an oncoming train!
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RE: Front Forks - 5/25/2007 2:58:55 AM
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dad
Posts: 296
Joined: 11/6/2005
From: Pittsburgh Pennsylvania
Status: offline
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Tapered bearings? Yes, but as mentioned, only if they're flat spotted. Mine made 43,000 before needing replaced. I used tapered replacements which are near bulletproof BUT, need to be cleaned and lubed every 25,000 or so. They start to get spots that aren't really free running from the grease drying or being displaced. Check the same, by unweighting the front and checking that it's free running, no drag. It's subtle so it's easy to miss but the bike feels much better with a freely operating steering head. With the tapered it's usually just a cleaning and fresh grease required instead of replacement.
< Message edited by dad -- 5/25/2007 2:59:38 AM >
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RE: Front Forks - 5/25/2007 7:30:28 AM
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cb2cbr
Posts: 103
Joined: 11/18/2005
Status: offline
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The steering head bearings are ball type from most manufacturer because they make the most sense. Tapered roller are best suited for full 360 rotation and high speed. They can handle great loads, but generally aren't the first choice for a thrust load. As DAD said, keeping them properly maintained makes all the difference.
Ball type bearings are perfect for this job. They can take the pounding the front end gets from the road and cost way less to boot. So keep 'em clean and greased and leave the jumps and stunts to lighter bikes!
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cb2cbr
1979 CB750F one owner-me
1994 CBR1000F
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