How to: Pull Your Engine (F4)

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How to: Pull Your Engine (F4)

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How to: Pull Your Engine (F4) - 6/16/2007 7:13:21 PM

therabbit

Posts: 476
Joined: 4/26/2007
Status: offline

This post isn't even remotely safe for slow internet connections. Lots of pictures with directions:

Alright, well this is the second time I've done this in the past month, and it's getting old

. Anyway, did it real speedy this time, 60 minutes (including taking pictures) from starting to drain the coolant to pulling the engine out from under the frame. It'll probably take you longer to load this how-to and read it then it will to actually do it, but I was as thorough as possible

First you're going to need to get your bike to this point. Remove the gas tank and all the plastics, remove airbox and carburetors, and the miscelanious air hoses up there. Drain the coolant, remove the radiator, and the coolant overflow bottle. Your bike should look like this: (Except you wont have the awesome white fork sliders that I do

)

Now you've got to start disconnecting the electrical components.

Now to the front of the engine:

Next step is optional, but I prefer to do it because you'll realize really quick if you missed unplugging something, unplug all the harnesses up front, and pull the whole main harness back to the tail of the subframe, make sure you pull everything out so nothing gets caught around the engine for the later steps. You should now be looking at a clear view of the top of your engine:

Alright, now we'll start removing the engine mounts, but first, make sure the engine and frame are secured and supported:

Before we start removing the mounts there are a couple little things that need to be removed.
First the clutch:

Other side of the bike:

Now that the cover is off, have someone hold down the rear brake to keep the rear wheel from spinning, and break this bolt loose:

Now slide the sprocket and chain off, remove the sprocket completely and just let the chain hang there. You may need more slack to do this, just give it more slack by tightening the rear wheel adjustment bolts.

Now we start removing the mounts, I HIGHLY recommend using nothing but 6 point sockets, some of the mounts may be in there pretty tight, and you don't want to chance stripping one by using a 12 point:

First up are the 2 front mounting locations and their aluminum spacers:

Now the middle hanger:

Remove the castle nut and the sunk spacer on the right side:

(Note: you don't have to remove the spacer and castle nut to remove the engine MOST LIKELY. But removing them will give you more wiggle room when you finally drop it out.)
Here's what all you should have just removed:

Next the main engine mounts, these are th

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The List of Everything You Ever Need To Know About an F4

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RE: How to: Pull Your Engine (F4) - 7/19/2007 12:56:38 PM

118367s

Posts: 162
Joined: 5/11/2007
Status: offline

would a 96 900rr engine removal be quite the same every thing lokks about the same just wondering if u could reply asap

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96 cbr 900rr
led tail lights

(in reply to therabbit)

Post #: 2

RE: How to: Pull Your Engine (F4) - 8/14/2007 11:03:39 AM

eekenterprises

Posts: 310
Joined: 7/14/2007
Status: offline

Just wanted to say that is a killer write up!

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Current bike Brand new 2006 f4i with zero miles just bought and storing for winter....
Old Bikes,03 gixxer 1k, 99 (always missed) f4 squid tuned, 2003 sv650s, 02 yamaha r6, 01 ninja zx6r, 75 xl250, 88 goldwing.

Luv bein up on 1

(in reply to 118367s)

Post #: 3