RE: Not the carbs? 2nd gear sputter.
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RE: Not the carbs? 2nd gear sputter. - 11/29/2007 11:26:03 PM
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Jack Riddley
Posts: 58
Joined: 7/3/2007
Status: offline
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Yes it was low. multiple possible reasons why this could be. I believe it was because of the location in line. Talked to mech and engineer. Common enough and said I was fine.
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RE: Not the carbs? 2nd gear sputter. - 12/3/2007 1:24:20 PM
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frankmackie
Posts: 113
Joined: 11/16/2006
Status: offline
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okay. i have checked and re-checked the functionality of the air solenoid valve (using the test given to me by the manual) and performed the same test to the working F4 in the garage. It turns out that the valve is working fine. there is a substantial resistence the input gives but is varied (that is, the more air pressure, the more open the valve gets... it just seemed like too much resistence to me when i ran the tests... the other bike is the same though). WHERE IS THAT DYNOMITE? I think its time for my bike to have an accident.
i am thinking that the floats are faulty in some way... when it went down, it is possible that one (or more) were frozen in the up/open position and are letting in too much gas in but am not too sure. or maybe closed, i dunno. it seems to have symptoms of being flooded with too much gas when it dies. i cant think of a way to test them.
it looks like i am going to have to pull off the carb assembly and rebuild the floats to be sure.
what do you think?
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RE: Not the carbs? 2nd gear sputter. - 12/4/2007 1:51:15 PM
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frankmackie
Posts: 113
Joined: 11/16/2006
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i am going to start with electrical first. i will be trial replacing the ECM and the relay and then do the carb floats if that doesnt work. i will post my results.
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RE: Not the carbs? 2nd gear sputter. - 12/14/2007 4:13:30 PM
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Jonv
Posts: 9
Joined: 12/10/2007
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quote:
The carb needs the same air pressure as the main air intake. D.A.I.
Jack:
As I understand, a carb needs a pressure differential to work. There needs to be a lower pressure inside the carb than there is outside, for fuel to be drawn out of the float bowl through the jets and on down into the combustion chamber. That's the way my old Mikuni's worked anyways.
So maybe what was happening was the ram air function was overcoming the vacuum inside the carb and therefore no fuel was being drawn. I would really like to know exactly what is going on in any case, because I am soon going to have to deal with issues around ram air. I don't have the solenoid, and I won't have a scoop out in the air stream since I am putting one of these motors into a small formula car.
Now a question:
Why in heaven's name would there be an overlapping arrangement in this venting system. IOW why have both a low and high speed venting system when it is apparently OK to have the high speed system open always as it is when the solenoid fails? Any ideas?
< Message edited by Jonv -- 12/14/2007 4:29:46 PM >
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RE: Not the carbs? 2nd gear sputter. - 12/15/2007 1:42:00 PM
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fastrr
Posts: 158
Joined: 9/10/2006
Status: offline
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Jet mechanic... come on over and fix my piece of shit 900rr. lol. The thing doesn't make the kind of power it should be making imo. I can barely throttle up a power wheelie and that should be cake.
I'm replacing the stator once the new/used on arrives. I think I know what my bike's problem is though.. slightly leaking seals on the enrichment valves(choke), causing the plugs to slightly foul. Also i need to check/adjust the valve shims, and then dial in the manual cam chain tensioner to spec. My bike feels like it's putting out 90 hp not 120hp like it should be at the engine. I wish i knew someone who owned a dynomometer and was a great tuning mechanic.
I've tested EVERYTHING electrical on my bike, the wiring, all the electrical components according the tech manual for my bike. This is part of the reason i'm replacing the stator, it tested bad, that and it kept frying my new batteries i'd buy for it. Wasn't a voltage regulator/rectifier problem either, that tested good.
I have noticed the 900rr runs better with a paper air filter, than a gauze type filter.
I also have a stageII jet kit with 120 main jets ( bike freaking flies above 8K rpm) and a BMC race air filter. I need to put the stock jets back in the carbs and then synch the carbs to spec, remove those and then put the stage II kit back in it. Impossible almost to adjust the carbs with a jet kit installed in them. The mercury gauge won't stay steady.
if there is a good mechanic with dynomometer and tuning experience..i'll trade work for your services. I make carbon fiber parts professionally. I'm in Phoenix AZ.
< Message edited by fastrr -- 12/15/2007 1:53:06 PM >
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RE: Not the carbs? 2nd gear sputter. - 12/26/2007 12:32:58 PM
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frankmackie
Posts: 113
Joined: 11/16/2006
Status: offline
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Update:
Still not working!
that being said, i have since:
1. Replaced the Ingnition Pulse Sensor and Spark wheel back to stock (had an advancer in it)
2. moved the air hoses to the AIR Solenoind Valve and zip tied them next to the ram air tubes in front
3. been to a honda mechanic that moved my air solenoid intake valves a bit more to get more direct air in the valve. (he also checked the tank valve even though he just verified that it works.. i tested that too). It hit 80 and seemed better at first. I didnt have time to really test it out over a mile untill yesterday... no dice. It still seems gutless and dies coasting at 60-70 mph. It just starts to loose power and throttle response and then dies (thud) once the clutch is pulled in. He took it for a short spin and didn't notice anything, he didnt have time to really test it out but i told him i would let him know. (they are on a week+ break so i cant get it to him til then).
It feels like it is flooding out when it dies to me. It wont refire until it sits for about 5 mins and then it runs very rough (only at low speeds) until it sits longer.
I feel i have done everything in my knowledge base to fix this thing and am on my second mechanic (i havent given up on him yet, but he needs more time with it).
Please review everything in this above (or ask) for what has been done already... it's a lot!
I noticed when i replaced the ignition pulse sensor that the connection fitting on the outside of the case (plugs into the wire harness assembly) was charred and i had melted plastic around it. i thought it was the result of the wire resting on the hot transfer case and motor so i moved it out of the way with some wire.
i am thinking that my stator might have taken a crap on me but am unsure. the cover was damaged when it went down but not too bad... no holes or anything. is it possible that the impact caused a failure? Unless its simple sodering, Electrical is not my forte. I am also thinking a compression test or full carb rebuild might be in order.
I am still baffeled.
thanks for all your help!!!!
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