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ORIGINAL: woot


The way the speedohealer works is changes the timing of the pulses from the front sprocket.

Each pulse signifies a rotation - each rotation is a certain distance - when the gear ratio changes the expected distance is wrong - and you get a % error.

When you install a speedohealer it fixes the pulse rate - which means that the number of pulses with the expected distance covered per pulse ads up the the actual distance covered... a cheat type fix.

The odometer and the speedometer are usually driven from the same source - it costs money to run both an odometer and speedometer sensor and doesn't make much sense as they measure the same thing - distance covered (number of pulses) and the speed (rate of pulses).

I just installed a speedohealer on an F4 - pretty trivial once you find the right plug - I was looking on the left and it was on the right. Plugged it in - put all the switches up, reset it - put all of the switches down except the second last one - pushed the button 7 times - it flashes 7 blinks - flipped up the last switch and the second last switch down - hit the button 5 times - it flashed 5 times - put them all down and she is set at -7.5% correction. Test road it - hit the button and it flashes the top speed on the speedometer (60km/h).

I can't comment as to which is better - I just brought the speedohealer as I heard the name more frequently - so far I'm happy with it. I brought the honda plug and the base unit. I unplugged the 3-wire plug. Plugged the speedohealer male into the existing female, plugged the existing male into the speedohealer female - connected the end of the speedohealer honda cable into the speedohealer (after routing it up into the tail section) - zip tied the wire in place - set the correction factor and put the seat back on... done. I don't think I'd bother with the remote button

Cheers,
Woot