RE: Riding Help..
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RE: Riding Help.. - 11/7/2007 5:49:51 PM
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crashkhanman
Posts: 1540
Joined: 8/18/2007
From: Radford/Fredericksburg
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Booty Freak
I see you got the lefties down, what about your right hand turns ??
Good Catch! .. I have to work on my left foot placement more in order to get the right knee down. That is the root of my problem because I can't get my lower body off the bike nearly enough on that side. Unfortunately this knowledge came a little late and the weather is too cold to be practicing anymore. :( Looks like next riding season before I can post up some figure 8's. 
Being that I will have all this time not riding, I will be using JBrowns resources and learning alot about my suspension (Thanks). And you're right JBrown ... once I convienced myself that my bike could be dropped trying that left hand turn and just went with it and hoped my frame slider would do its job. Sure enough it was ok and just one big worry on my part that was limiting my ability to go further with my bike.
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RE: Riding Help.. - 11/8/2007 12:00:45 AM
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ApexClipper
Posts: 82
Joined: 6/23/2007
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: crashkhanman
Thanks again guys for the advice. ApexClipper any suggestions or results I should see from adjusting the suspension settings? .. Or do you mean replacing them with racing parts? Am I going to notice day and night differences between my stock tires and the Michelin Pilot Powers I'm looking at? If you meant replacing the suspension.. any suggestions for a decent track setup with the ability to be driven on the street?
I would recommend first setting your stock suspension properly, seek out the assistance of an experienced person for this which will save you a lot of time. Get a base setting for static sag, compression and rebound and then see how it feels. Make small incremental adjustments to fine tune, make one change at a time only and then get a feel for what that change does or doesn't do for you.
You can get by on the street with suspension that is setup just so-so, you can greatly improve rideability on the street with proper adjustments but suspension performance becomes a limiting factor as you push the envelope at speed on the track or the street since it's what keeps the rubber to the road and minimizes chassis instability. If you progress past the limits of the stock suspension to keep the bike planted and stable at the speeds you're running then you may want to explore an upgrade and it doesn't always require tossing the stock bits away. I had fork revalving done on a stock 929 for about $300.00 and it made a world of difference over the bumpy stuff. If you've got more cash to play with there's great options there too. I think it comes down to two questions, 1) Are the current suspension dynamics holding me back from the performance level I want to achieve? 2) if yes to #1 then how much am I willing to invest?
You strike me as a guy who wants to test the performance of the bike and yourself to the limits, which reminds me of myself some years ago.  So as to the tire question I couldn't say whether the Pilot Powers will be night and day from what you're using now, but they're very good street tires after warmed up with a reputation of needing a touch extra warmup before being pushed. But.....and here's where I may get preachy.....if you plan to seriously test any limits and are the kind of guy who will keeping seeking the next bit of performance then take it off the street and to the track. At the track use race compound tires or at least tires rated as street/track, many will say street compound tires are fine for track days but I'm no longer of that school after experiencing the limits of some OEM Dunlops.
Right handers vs. left handers, interesting topic. I also found it much easier to hang-off on left handers then on right handers. What helped me was a suggestion a buddy of mine made. I think most riders tend to keep their hand/wrist perpendicular to the throttle. If you just sit on the bike and practice hanging off to the right you'll find that keeping your wrist perfectly perpendicular to the throttle limits your body position, your elbow sort of jams into your body and you can't drop your shoulder down. The suggestion that helped me was while dropping in to a right hander hold the throttle more like you would a screw driver then the handle of a lawn mower, this allows the elbow to extend outward more which allows the shoulder and upper torso to more easily drop down to the side.
Best of luck, be fast but be safe out there!
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Printable Version
). On track they'll get much hotter and stickier from all of the friction making it safer and less likely to wash out.
