RE: It *almost* started...

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RE: It *almost* started... - 1/22/2008 4:11:48 PM

Hershey

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Joined: 7/27/2007
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The carbs pull the fuel in from the float bowls, I doubt the smaller T junction would have a diverse effect such as that.

It only pulls more fuel through as the level in the float bowl lowers, but the fuel should be readily available in the lines to fill the void.

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Post #: 16

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/22/2008 4:16:07 PM

SpecR

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Geh... I really don't have to deal with the float valve cover screws... I'm probably gonna have to drill and extract half of them, and then replace them all with bolts :p

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Post #: 17

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/22/2008 4:36:12 PM

Hershey

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Yeah the heads very soft metal... I have to replace a few of mine as well, be careful with the float bowl gasket.

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Post #: 18

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/22/2008 4:53:37 PM

SpecR

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Do you have to replace the O-rings? It seems like you would... considering how old they probably are.

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Post #: 19

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/22/2008 5:07:19 PM

Hershey

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I'm replacing mine because one got pinched, but you only really have to if they leak.

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Post #: 20

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/25/2008 7:20:32 PM

SpecR

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Hmm, I cracked open the 'bad' carbs (it was pretty easy with an electric screwdriver... I ruined like 3 screws with a manual one though), and cleaned the nastyness (some dirt or sand-like particles in the float chambers) out of them.

Turns out that one of the main jets was missing and the jet holder was broken. Although I didn't notice this until I broke one of them myself... doh. OTOH, this explains why the owner of the bike couldn't get it running right.

Considering just how fragile the jets are, there might be a broken one on my 'good' carb too.

But I'm going to go ahead and replace the T with the unbroken stock one, and crank it up again before I go and crack open the float chambers and clean them out.

If you run it with the choke on when the engine is hot, will it flood the engine? I figure that might be one, among several problems I'm having. Or maybe my Starting Enrichment sliders are sticking open (my bad carbs only have ONE of the springs left, although they'll close without them).

I wonder if I need a jet kit since I have a D&D slip-on and a K&N filter (cleaned and oiled of course).

I bought a master link (clip on type since the chain probably isn't going to stay), so this time I might be able to actually ride it if I get it running properly.

< Message edited by SpecR -- 1/25/2008 7:25:00 PM >

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Post #: 21

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/25/2008 7:31:29 PM

Hershey

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Probably need to go to a bigger main, and shim the needles. Or just buy the jet kit from dynojet and it comes with new needles that are adjustable, I bought the jet kit and my bike has never run so good.

Choke open + engine hot = well... it should = engine stalling...

I'm not sure why you're putting off overhauling the carbs but it sure sounds like it's necessary!

And I hope you have some un-busted ones...

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Post #: 22

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/25/2008 8:01:01 PM

SpecR

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There should be enough parts between the two so that I could get one set of working carbs.

I don't have cash for new aftermarket jets though, but I could probably afford to replace the broken parts from Ron Ayers, at least.

This is a rat bike project, btw :p

I just want something I can ride long enough to even see if I like riding (at full throttle on a 600 sport bike...lol).

I'll spend real money on it when I get a better paying job (like some race bodywork to go along with a one-piece race suit...).

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Post #: 23

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/26/2008 10:26:16 AM

SpecR

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I switched the T connector and it started instantly, and ran for several minutes until it cut out... and then I remembered that I forgot to turn the fuel back on. It wouldn't start again immediately, so I decided to do something else.

At the moment, I'm waiting for the locktight on the master link, and the epoxy one the muffler (slight leak) to dry.

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Post #: 24

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/26/2008 12:24:01 PM

SpecR

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OK, it runs fairly well for a few minutes, even with the choke off, and then it just stops.

Any ideas?

(and apparently the clutch doesn't work either... the wheel spins as soon as it's in gear)

< Message edited by SpecR -- 1/26/2008 12:28:17 PM >

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Post #: 25

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/26/2008 1:00:19 PM

Hershey

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If the rear tire is off the ground it will always spin in gear, tis' normal.

It will spin in neutral, too... You can stop it with your hand, there's always enough friction going on to spin the wheel.

< Message edited by Hershey -- 1/26/2008 1:05:12 PM >

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Post #: 26

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/26/2008 1:06:05 PM

SpecR

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Yeah, I know it'll spin a little bit, but I'm talking about "full speed" spinning once I pop out into first. I couldn't stop it with my foot, with the clutch in.

Unless this is normal too?

I really don't want to have to reinstall my clutch...lol

Also, I started it up again and I was able to goose the throttle and rev it like it's my bitch, yet I imagine that in a few minutes, it would just shut off again from lack of fuel.

For the record, I have a petcock that doesn't have a vacuum release on it.

Do I have an F3 petcock on it, or something?

I know the catalog has a "cheap" petcock and a "freaking expensive" petcock (the vacuum-released one).

If my petcock isn't gravity fed (ie, an F3 model), would I have this problem?

How can you tell the F3 petcock from the vacuumless F2 replacement petcock?

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Post #: 27

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/26/2008 1:11:12 PM

Hershey

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Vacuum petcock will have 2 hoses, the smaller hose is the vacuum line...

I just remembered you mickey moused a clutch together, chances are it's not working right, something you may want to re-do, lol.

$60 for a set of clutch fibers at bikebandit.com

$80 for race fibers and springs.

New gasket is about $12 from Honda.

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I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

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Post #: 28

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/26/2008 1:16:12 PM

Hershey

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Joined: 7/27/2007
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Also, you do need the vacuum petcock.

I had a phantom problem with starting when it was too cold outside... Turned out to be the rubber diaphram in the petcock got loose and the vacuum wasn't working.

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I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

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Post #: 29

RE: It *almost* started... - 1/26/2008 1:42:33 PM

SpecR

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Joined: 10/19/2007
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For some reason, it's decided to run... (at least for ~10 minutes, I turned it off...)

I wonder how many times it's normal for the idle to change as it's warming up?

Apparently Bartlett clutches are supposed to leave the judder spring/seat out...

I didn't know the plates had a bevel on them, so I just put them in whichever way I felt like. Would this cause it to not disengage?

(it's definately not disengaging)

I should probably also check the oil level, since overfilling it can apparently cause the clutch to not disengage.

There's no reason that you need the vacuum release, since that's just a safety feature. The issue is whether it's gravity fed (F2) or pump fed (F3).

I did, of course, block off the vacuum hose that was supposed to go to the release.

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Post #: 30