HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding

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HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding

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HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 3:38:03 PM

JeffRR

Posts: 206
Joined: 12/8/2005
Status: offline

Just got done replacing the front sprocket and have everything put back together and am trying to bleed the system. If you have a manual for 1krr look at page 10-7 at the top. I have bled the system till there is no bubbles in the line but the clutch will still not disengage the motor. The clutch is still real soft. What am I am doing wrong or not doing..Thanks in advance!

Post #: 1

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 4:54:03 PM

ejohn

Posts: 369
Joined: 11/16/2005
Status: offline

you must be talking about your brakes?

(in reply to JeffRR)

Post #: 2

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 4:55:28 PM

chainstretcher

Posts: 4506
Joined: 11/5/2004
Status: offline

Well I'll tell ya, maybe it can be bled by hand but I can't do it. You'll probably need a mighty-vac or something similar to bleed all the bubbles out. Why did you open the system just to change the front sprocket?

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It's better to burn out ...
Than high side!

(in reply to JeffRR)

Post #: 3

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 5:20:24 PM

doncollins

Posts: 6248
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: OH, KY & WV
Status: offline

I'm lost... you did what to the clutch while changing out the sprocket?

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Post #: 4

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 5:55:58 PM

pizzle954rr

Posts: 194
Joined: 8/17/2005
Status: offline

Maybe put a hydralic clutch on??? Not sure what he's talking about either

_____________________________

CBR 954rr 2002
Flapper Mod
GPR STABILIZER
VORTEX REAR SETS
NIGHT STALKER LED KIT
REMOVED BLINKERS,GRAPHICS,ETC.
DandD slip-on
PAZZO SHORTY LEVERS
VORTEX FRAME SLIDERS
520 CONVERSION(RENTHAL SPROCKETS/DID CHAIN)
K&N FILTER,Galfer Lines

(in reply to doncollins)

Post #: 5

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 5:59:10 PM

chainstretcher

Posts: 4506
Joined: 11/5/2004
Status: offline

Dudes -- the 1000RR comes stock with a hydraulic clutch

. And it's a bee-yatch to bleed

_____________________________

It's better to burn out ...
Than high side!

(in reply to pizzle954rr)

Post #: 6

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 6:00:50 PM

pizzle954rr

Posts: 194
Joined: 8/17/2005
Status: offline

maybe he's refering to that

_____________________________

CBR 954rr 2002
Flapper Mod
GPR STABILIZER
VORTEX REAR SETS
NIGHT STALKER LED KIT
REMOVED BLINKERS,GRAPHICS,ETC.
DandD slip-on
PAZZO SHORTY LEVERS
VORTEX FRAME SLIDERS
520 CONVERSION(RENTHAL SPROCKETS/DID CHAIN)
K&N FILTER,Galfer Lines

(in reply to chainstretcher)

Post #: 7

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 8:10:31 PM

JeffRR

Posts: 206
Joined: 12/8/2005
Status: offline

OK, lets try this again. I removed the slave cylinder to get to the crankcase cover to remove it so I could replace the front sprocket. The manual said to remove the crankcase cover I had to remove the slave cylinder which included bleeding the clutch system, maybe it needed to be, maybe it didn't, don't care I did it! Now that I have everything back together and bleeding all the air bubbles out of the system manually(by pumping the brakes and loosening the bleeder valve till all bubbles are out)the clutch will not disengage the motor. Re-bled the system and started from scratch again and still the same problem. Does that clear everything up. Sorry for the confusion.....

(in reply to pizzle954rr)

Post #: 8

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 9:03:55 PM

doncollins

Posts: 6248
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: OH, KY & WV
Status: offline

Sorry... I have the 600RR, all I had to do was to remove the sprocket cover and move the shift lever out of the way.

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Post #: 9

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 9:31:01 PM

chainstretcher

Posts: 4506
Joined: 11/5/2004
Status: offline

I understand -- really. Problem is, and I know ya know this already, that there are still bubbles in the system. You're gonna have to get a good vacuum going and suck the bubble out. Just squeezing the lever won't do it.

Sorry you went by the book -- I posted where I did the 520 conversion (with pics) on my 1kRR and it was only necessary to move the slave cylinder outta the way. Didn't have to disconnect it.

The manual also has some real happy torque values for the front rotor bolts. I snapped off two new bolts using their values before I realized hmmmmm, the book may be wrong. Other than that the manual has been spot on for everything else.

_____________________________

It's better to burn out ...
Than high side!

(in reply to doncollins)

Post #: 10

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/8/2006 10:57:33 PM

slowpoke

Posts: 518
Joined: 8/6/2005
From: Denver, Colorado
Status: offline

The 1000F also has an hydraulic clutch. If it was bleeded correctly so that the clutch lever is firm, something else must be wrong. Mine uses a small pushrod from the slave to the inside of the clutch. Could your pushrod be out of place?

(in reply to chainstretcher)

Post #: 11

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/9/2006 4:53:16 PM

JeffRR

Posts: 206
Joined: 12/8/2005
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: chainstretcher

Sorry you went by the book -- I posted where I did the 520 conversion (with pics) on my 1kRR and it was only necessary to move the slave cylinder outta the way. Didn't have to disconnect it.

Ya, your right. That was my dumb A** fault. Went by what the manual said instead of looking around the forum. Oh well, bought the speed bleeder and it still didn't fix the problem so its in the shop. I'll keep ya undated to what I find out. Thanks for all the help though.

(in reply to chainstretcher)

Post #: 12

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/9/2006 5:59:13 PM

Anubis

Posts: 2159
Joined: 6/27/2005
Status: offline

Glad you posted this man, i`m about to bleed the clutch fluid because it looking really dirty. I have a bleeder kit with a one way valve in that i use for the brakes from what you`ve said it gonna be no use for this. Keep us posted.

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Liverpool-UK

Bla Bla Bla - Just Ride It !!

(in reply to JeffRR)

Post #: 13

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/9/2006 6:22:13 PM

JeffRR

Posts: 206
Joined: 12/8/2005
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Anubis

Glad you posted this man, i`m about to bleed the clutch fluid because it looking really dirty. I have a bleeder kit with a one way valve in that i use for the brakes from what you`ve said it gonna be no use for this. Keep us posted.

I don't think you would have a problem if you have the right bleeder. I bought the one-man bleeder kit from AUTOZONE for $6. Bad mistake. If you have a good bleeder you'll be ok. One thing I did learn here is after you drain all the old fluid out and begin to bleed out the line with new fluid DO NOT dry pump the clutch lever. I think thats the mistake I made and might have ruined the seals in the master cylinder. I'll let ya know.

(in reply to Anubis)

Post #: 14

RE: HELP!!!/Clutch Bleeding - 1/9/2006 7:40:10 PM

chainstretcher

Posts: 4506
Joined: 11/5/2004
Status: offline

When you use a vacuum pump on it you gotta be careful too -- it'll suck the reservoir dry in a heartbeat. The good thing about the vacuum pump is you can build up vacuum and "shock" the bubbles down with a quick 'open/close' combo. Hard to explain. I just know that even with the pump the brakes are a pain and the clutch is a real bitch.

It seems unreasonable that your seals would be gone because the fluid in the clutch won't evaporate. I see no reason that a small amount of air getting in would cause the seals to swell or crack -- fuel system seals and o-rings will die in minutes when exposed to air. Hope the shop gets it back to ya quick with only a minor raping.

_____________________________

It's better to burn out ...
Than high side!

(in reply to JeffRR)

Post #: 15