-1 vs. +2 (Full Version)

CBR Forum >> Current Honda CBR Models >> 600 Modifications

-1 vs. +2

  

f4iman -> -1 vs. +2 (4/1/2008 1:29:29 PM)

I wanna get more acceleration out of my bike. What would -1 off the front due compared to +2 on the back. Is that equal? Thanks for the info.

  
RounderNU -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/1/2008 2:09:45 PM)

what do you have right now?

specializedfuji -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/1/2008 3:59:31 PM)

it would be a plus 3 in the back


cobra671 -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/1/2008 4:07:34 PM)

I think it's more like, +2 and a half to 3 = -1 up front. Most guys I know gear the rear to lessen the chain bind up front, but for comparison purposes, the -1 has more accelleration than +2.

I tried that combo and didn't like it for the street, but for the drag racing, it was perfect.

JMO

f4iman -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/1/2008 5:36:30 PM)

I have stock now. I would like to have the max acceleration considering I do a good bit a street riding.

roc87 -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/1/2008 7:32:17 PM)

I did a -1/+1, changed the final drive ratio from 2.875 to 3.13, may not seem like a lot, but it made a huge difference in acceleration.....also dropped my average MPG by at least 8[:'(] But don't know actual difference as I only got the speedohealer hooked up last night, which BTW, you don't need to remove the side fairing nor lift the tank (unless you have some HUGE hands). Using a GPS, the -1/+1  swap came out be -14% on the speedohealer.

be vertical -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/1/2008 8:36:29 PM)

1 in the front is equal to three in the back, regardless of direction. Its however hard to set a standard on. Your stock gearing should be something like 16/42... Going down one in the front will in fact do more then two in the rear, but slightly less that three in the rear. I think the equivalency is like 2.72. The best combination for street I think is -1/+1, which comes out to a little less than +4 in the rear. You do have a couple of other things going on however... The first is that you should never go down to anything less than a 15 in the front (which is -1 on most bikes). Anything smaller then that and you risk binding up your chain, which can lead to a breakage of the master link, causing the chain to snap. If it snaps, it will take off your leg, crack your block, cause you to fall, or maybe all at the same time... this is not something you want to risk, EVER! If you go too large in the rear, you will have to get a new chain, because with the stock chain I think you can only go up like +3 before the chain is not big enough to get around the sprocket. When getting new sprockets, you want to make sure that your rear wheel centers up at basically the same spot along the tensioner guide. If you change that too much, you are offsetting the wheelbase, changing the ride and reaction of the bike.

Personally I have a 15 in the front, which is -1 for me, and then I have a 43 and a 41 for the rear. Most of the time I have the 43 in there, cause I ride street 90%. On long trips however it is nice to be able to do a 80+ mpg cruise without being in the power-band (above 10k on the tach). This is where the 41 comes in. It brings me almost back to stock, allowing me to coast along on the highway without screaming my rpm head off. My only complaint about this is that with the 15/41 setup I am overall down two teeth from stock, so my wheel sits back about 1/2 inch more then it should, it is however much easier then changing the chain, as that is a real pain and cannot be done in ten minutes like a sprocket swap can.

roc87 -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/1/2008 9:07:02 PM)

Dang man, a 10 minute sprocket swap?! I must be doing something wrong....LOL

slatherson -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/3/2008 10:31:32 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: be vertical

"Anything smaller then that and you risk binding up your chain, which can lead to a breakage of the master link, causing the chain to snap. If it snaps, it will take off your leg, crack your block, cause you to fall, or maybe all at the same time... this is not something you want to risk, EVER!"

slatherson -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/3/2008 10:47:21 PM)

^^^ I had this happen to me on my first bike at well over 100mph and all it did was scratch my tail fairing. Needless to say when I figured out what had happened as I stood on the side of the freeway at six in the morning I literally got on my knees, made the cross on my chest, and KISSED the ground!!! When I look back on that it makes me nervous, and it makes me second guess owning a bike today. 80 percent of the time it's the other guys fault, 19 percent of the time it's our own fault, but ONE percent of the time, or less, it's the equipment. TAKE CARE OF YOUR EQUIPMENT!!!

Sorry didn't mean to hijack.

f4iman -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/4/2008 8:56:43 AM)

I appreciate all of these posts. Thanks!  I still dont know what i am going to do.

Bumble Bee -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/4/2008 11:10:07 AM)

On my F4 I have -1 on the front and stock number of teeth onthe rear, but have a Vortex light weight aluminum sprocket back there and it's the 520 chain-not the 525.  I got the kit from my dealer for $166.00  It's the RK/Vortex 520 quick acell kit.   So far I like it alot.  It's quiler down low, but still is nice on the highway.

Todd84 -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/4/2008 5:42:52 PM)

I went -1/+2 520 kit for mine. I would have liked -1/stock more now that I have done it. That is what I think you should try if you don't like it you can always trade me rear sprockets [:)]

f4iman -> RE: -1 vs. +2 (4/23/2008 1:33:16 PM)

Thanks again!

  

Page: [1]

Return to CBR Forum home page or view the Full Version of this page.