RE: HTEV & Servo
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/14/2008 8:25:55 PM
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bignibb
Posts: 587
Joined: 1/7/2007
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I havnt done it but I have heard that you have to disassemble the butterfly valve and flip it around and then reassemble it back together and that's what keeps it open and I hope I'm giving the right information on this and if I'm wrong someone please step in!
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/14/2008 10:28:10 PM
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Fatboy
Posts: 256
Joined: 11/12/2004
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Um full exhaust eliminates this issue 
Only kidding ( i was lucky enough to buy my bike with a full erion). I think the best solution is to gut the HTEV. Even if you weld it in the open position, it will still restrict flow to some extent. I'd say just pull the valve, use a dremel or similar to remove the valve and weld any holes shut.
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/14/2008 10:34:57 PM
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Fatboy
Posts: 256
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BTW, i think a PC is thes best way to go with this mod (according to the dudes on fireblades.org).
But who knows, the stock ECU might be able to accomodate the added flow once it's reset. Do you reset it the same as you would an OBD-II auto (unplug the battery, let the ECU drain)?
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/14/2008 11:15:05 PM
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KidCr3nshaw
Posts: 3683
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Don't know about resetting the ECU, I was talking about the MIL's earlier.
Yeah, I've taken the assembly apart and removed everything that wasn't needed except for the valve itself. I think I would rather tackweld the valve in place as opposed to removing it completely - anyone removed it completely?
I honestly don't see how it could restrict any exhaust from looking at the mechanics. Removing it looks to only add more volume, not less restriction.
In any case, I'm still curious how anyone else is holding it in place... ? Guess I'm just going to be tacking it tomorrow but I'm also still curious about the MIL tripping. I'd like that to stop, too.
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1996 CBR 600F3
2002 CXR 400RR Supermoto wanna-be ;)
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/14/2008 11:17:14 PM
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KidCr3nshaw
Posts: 3683
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P.S. Flipping the valve doesn't do much since it's going to have at least 180 degrees movement no matter where it's turned to. When it's in it's stock position, 180 degrees translates to full open. Now that it's at full open, 180 translates to CFC (completely fvcking closed, lol).
I don't know any other way of keeping it in place other than to weld it but I'm open to suggestions... ?
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1996 CBR 600F3
2002 CXR 400RR Supermoto wanna-be ;)
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/15/2008 5:16:21 AM
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pitbike
Posts: 35
Joined: 8/25/2006
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my HTEV was sooooo carboned up, it can't move unless it is rotated with a big-ass pliers....so effectively it is stuck open. Plus I removed the cables, so it can't be turned. There are no cables at all, the servo just sits there in mid air with nothing connected to it but the ECU.
I did pull the light this morning after about 100 miles or so, the ECU must have realized the servo was hunting and not finding the right stopping point and triggered it. Now that I know what the light is, not worried about it.
And I have not lost ANY bottom end at all, contrary to what my Honda MMI buddy told me would happen.
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/15/2008 5:36:24 AM
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sc929
Posts: 143
Joined: 8/21/2007
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+1 with Nibb. There's a post I saw when looking for a pic of the guts that said something about flipping the valve. If you got the thing in hand and don't think that will work I'll take your word for it. Weld the SOB then there's no chance of closing. How do they get rid of the light with the Hass Elim?? What about cutting the internals off and leaving the servo hooked up so it thinks it is moving the valve when theres nothing there? I still haven't seen the guts so might be talking out of me arse. Keep us up Kid.
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/15/2008 7:08:30 AM
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pitbike
Posts: 35
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You can only get rid of the light by leaving it plugged into the ECU. And the pulley on the servo has to be turned to a certain position or the ECU will pick that up as being out of position and give you a light. I believe the set screw on the pulley has to be facing the left side of the bike.
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/15/2008 7:47:36 AM
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sc929
Posts: 143
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So by removing just the cables the ECU will still actuate the servo and not set the code. It shouldn't know the cables have been removed. There's no sensor on the exhaust valve itself right??
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/15/2008 8:34:50 AM
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pitbike
Posts: 35
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Correct, the ECU will still send a signal to the servo to move it to a set position, but if you remove the cables to the HTEV, it won't turn that. The HTEV is a straight forward machined part with no other sensors.
The best way I can explain it is this: The ECU tells the servo motor to rotate to a position at 3000 rpm and 7000 rpm, when it does, the pulley on the servo pulls the cables to the HTEV and flapper in the air box, moving them to a specific position. From 0 to 3000 rpm, the HTEV valve is at position that allows the 4 header pipes to flow air into 2 holes in the body of the HTEV and then into the midpipe. At 7000 rpm the ECU tells the servo to move to another position, pulling the cables again...which is supposed to open the flapper in the air box completely and rotate the HTEV to the full open position (the four header pipes flow thru 4 holes in the HTEV which then go into the midpipe.
With mine, the HTEV is in the full open position, no cables and the flapper is completely removed. Very simple to do.
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/15/2008 10:08:07 AM
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sc929
Posts: 143
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I get all that. My question is why did your light come on, why was a code set? If the servo is still functioning it shouldn't know the difference. Unless! It is picking the change up in the airbox, and the high/low range of the sensor is not making sense with the other sensors to the prom( or the ecu, guess we don't really have a prom). I don't know, I don't have a schematic or could probably figure out how to trick it. I have an Erion bolt on. If I was to do this mod I wonder if running an Erion full exhaust map would keep from losing low end. I would be afraid of that because in essence your minimizing backpressure, then I'd have to stuff that tater back in the hole, haha. Maybe pull the cables and tie off the valve open just for some seat of the pants runs and see what happens.
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/15/2008 11:48:12 AM
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pitbike
Posts: 35
Joined: 8/25/2006
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Servos are positional, so if it isn't in the right position it will throw a code. When the bike is off, my servo spins freely because the gear is stripped and not connected to anything by cable. As soon as power is applied you can feel the servo running with your fingers and it stays there until the ECU tells it to move.
I have a Two Bros bolt on and with the opened up HTEV, I would think a full exhaust map would be best. To try it out, just unhook the HTEV cables and leave them hanging there, open up the valve full (works best to just take it out and look at it to understand it), and see how she runs.
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RE: HTEV & Servo - 4/15/2008 12:40:16 PM
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sc929
Posts: 143
Joined: 8/21/2007
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Right. So since mine isn't stripped off theoretically it should spin to the right position and not throw the code. Poor mans full exhaust. I just don't want a light and don't want to waste the time if it will hurt or fail to improve response and/or power. Probably overthinking the result from the get-go.
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