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Front sprocket - 5/30/2008 9:33:41 AM

Craigart14

Posts: 39
Joined: 5/4/2006
Status: offline

The blazing sun mechanic needs help. (I used to be a shade tree mechanic, but that was before the windstorm.) I have a 91 1kF. The chain was hopping on the rear sprocket, so I bought stock sprockets for the front and rear and a chain. Swapped out the rear sprocket, discovered the previous owner had put on a 45-tooth sprocket, which I replaced with the stock 42. Took off the lower fairing, then the front sprocket cover. Could not loosen the bolt on the sprocket. Anyone know any tricks for that? I would like to avoid breaking the bolt and having to drill out the mess. I don't have any access to air wrenches. Also, the new sprocket looks different. The old one has a bolt about halfway from the center bolt to the sprocket teeth on opposite sides of the sprocket. The new one is a solid steel piece. At this point, I decided to put the sprocket cover back on and ride to the dealer for a little help. (I was going to do that anyway, once I got the front sprocket on, because I don't have the chain tools.) Only now the clutch doesn't work. The hydraulic clutch line runs to the sprocket cover, so I'm thinking I introduced some air into the system. How do I bleed it out?

As you have probably figured out, I'm not really a mechanic. I fix what I can to save money and the hassle of getting the bike to the shop. I live in a small town in rural Georgia. Not many sport or sport-touring types out here. I think I have the only Hurricane within a hundred miles.

So; any ideas?

Craig

Post #: 1

RE: Front sprocket - 5/30/2008 11:05:45 AM

Shadow1

Posts: 2097
Joined: 12/21/2007
From: Pinetown, South Africa
Status: offline

Hey Craig - first, they seem to have sold you the wrong sprocket - even replacement ones come with the two bolt holes either side of the main splined hole.
Second, you have probably not bolted the clutch actuator unit back down squarely - may have something to do with the sprocket. I've had mine off a couple of times and no air in the system...
Bleeding isn't a problem - plenty of guidelines for that on previous posts I think, or check the manual.
As for the bolts, spray some Q20 or equivalent spray lube on them and let them sit for a while. Then hit the bolts on the head with a small hammer - the shock may assist in loosening any muck in the threads (plenty of that down there) If you can borrow an impact wrench, they are usually cheap, and will take a 1/2 socket spanner. Give that a bang with a hammer, and it should come off.

(in reply to Craigart14)

Post #: 2

RE: Front sprocket - 5/30/2008 3:46:58 PM

idodirt

Posts: 709
Joined: 8/14/2006
From: South Florida, USA
Status: offline

Most of the time getting the front sprocket off proves to be a challenge because you can't get the shaft to stay still while trying to get the bolt loose. The trick I use is to put the bike in 6th gear. This creates a great mechanical advantage between the engine and the counter shaft sprocket. Between that and holding the brake on the rear wheel (have someone else sit on the bike and hold the rear brake (this is assuming that you still have the rear wheel, sprocket and chain installed)). This should allow you enough holding power to get the bolt to brake loose.

Good luck.

_____________________________

On the shore of Lake Okeechobee.

(in reply to Craigart14)

Post #: 3

RE: Front sprocket - 6/3/2008 7:58:51 PM

Craigart14

Posts: 39
Joined: 5/4/2006
Status: offline

Finally got the sprocket changed. Tried some PB Blaster, a few whacks with a hammer, my impact wrench, and a little Old Low Dutch vocabulary (the f word isn't really Anglo-Saxon) and, oh yeah, a four-foot length of pipe on my ratchet, the bolt finally came loose. Funny, it's only supposed to be toqued to 45 ft.-lbs. Whoever put the old sprocket on--and it's smaller than stock--apparently had his Wheaties that day. Will try to make time to change out the clutch fluid tomorrow. Then I'm going to tackle carb sync (never done that before) and take it to the dealer to get the chain replaced. I have the new chain, but not the tools for installing it.

Thanks for your suggestions. For a while, I thought maybe Honda had threaded the shaft backwards just to make my life difficult.

Craig

(in reply to idodirt)

Post #: 4

RE: Front sprocket - 6/3/2008 8:49:46 PM

kilgoretrout

Posts: 195
Joined: 3/30/2006
From: PA, USA
Status: offline

Good deal, Craig.
Let me (us) know how the carb sync goes, and what you used. I'd really like to do mine, but haven't settled on the sync device I want to invest in. I'm gonna try and see what the bike shop down the street will charge me, and see if it's worth it. I'm leaning toward a Carbtune2.
Wish I had a buddy nearby that had one.

(in reply to Craigart14)

Post #: 5

RE: Front sprocket - 7/4/2008 8:30:17 PM

Craigart14

Posts: 39
Joined: 5/4/2006
Status: offline

Meant to post this a couple of weeks ago and forgot. Carb sync was easy. The rubber caps on the carbs are very easy to reach, and the carb balancer I bought for about $55 had rubber tubes, valves and hemostats, but the hemostats weren''t necessary. I cut the hoses and put the valves on, then put the hoses on the balancer, then on the carbs. My ''91 is apparently not a California bike, so there wasn''t any need for a Mity Vac, and the balancer itself fit nicely on the dash. The adjusting screws are hard to see, but once you find them, they''re not hard to reach. With the engine running, the needles will be bouncing like crazy. Close the valves until the needles settle down, then blip the throttle to make sure they''re still responding. Then adjust carbs 1, 3, and 4. (The numbers are stamped on top of the engine, but don''t worry about which one is which. The base carb, #2, just doesn''t have an adjuster.) Match 1 to 2, then do 3 and 4. Nothing to it. I didn''t even have to remove anything from the bike except the rubber caps. Propping the gas tank up gave me plenty of room. Easy.

Craig

(in reply to kilgoretrout)

Post #: 6

RE: Front sprocket - 7/6/2008 1:33:10 AM

collector

Posts: 467
Joined: 9/7/2006
From: Norwich UK
Status: offline

When you pulled the clutch cylinder off did you take the the long rod out of the engine. If so, did you replace it in the same way as if placed in the wrong way will give the impression that the clutch is worn, and also there is a gasket behind the clutch cylinder which is a set thickness, this can also give the same impression of a worn clutch if not reused or replaced with the correct one.

_____________________________

THE LITTLE VOICE IN THE BACK OF MY HEAD IS GONNA GET ME HURT

(in reply to Craigart14)

Post #: 7

RE: Front sprocket - 7/13/2008 5:30:08 PM

Craigart14

Posts: 39
Joined: 5/4/2006
Status: offline

No, I didn''t take the long rod out of the engine. My motto is from an old Mad Magazine carton: "You should never have taken out the tappets." I try not to take anything off if I don''t need to. I think there was just some air in the clutch line. Fluid was a little low, and I hadn''t ridden the bike in a couple of weeks. The clutch may have been soft when I started on the sprocket swap. The bike''s running fine now.

Craig

(in reply to collector)

Post #: 8

RE: Front sprocket - 7/13/2008 6:47:07 PM

Steve_Cardiff

Posts: 78
Joined: 7/2/2006
From: Cardiff, South Wales.
Status: offline

So many people struggle with the front sprocket nut. The simple way is to loosen it before removing the old chain or rear sprocket. I always put a 2ft piece of 3x2 through the back wheel and let it jam against the swing arm whilst undoing the nut. Job''s a goodun