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Fuel problem I believe

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Fuel problem I believe - 6/18/2008 4:57:22 PM

LoneWolf04

Posts: 71
Joined: 6/4/2006
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I jumped on the bike yesterday and was riding down the freeway and when i was slowing down on my exit the bike started sputtering and stalled on me. I had at least a 1/2 tank of gas in the bike but the way it stalled seemed like when you run outta gas and need to put it on reserve to get to the next gas station. Now I''ve read on here the old hurricanes will run without a working fuel pump but will the F3''s? In any case the bike woulnd''t start, even after i called and got a truck out to come pick up the bike. The bike ended up sitting overnight and all day today while i was at work. I came home and wanted to make sure i was getting voltage to the pump, which I was when i turned the key on and hit the start button, and to my suprise, the bike started as well. If anyone has any ideas as to what could have caused the problem it would be appreciated. I really dont wanna take it out for a long ride if this is going to happen again. I''m not to familiar with how these bikes work. Thanks in advance.

Post #: 1

RE: Fuel problem I believe - 6/18/2008 5:27:31 PM

Sproutf3

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Joined: 1/6/2007
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my fuel pump went out on me twice the first time i used redneck ingenuity and wired the fuel pump straight to a battery and it chuged a bit then started pumping fine it was about 9 months befor it did it again, i replaced it with a used one i had handy.

maybe just some trash that made it past the filter building up i dunno...

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RE: Fuel problem I believe - 6/18/2008 6:59:42 PM

pacemaker

Posts: 1833
Joined: 7/18/2006
From: Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia
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Could be one of two things (I''ll post twice cause I''ll run out of time) Could be your in-line fuel filter clogged up, crappy fuel or a wee bit of moisture in juice.

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RE: Fuel problem I believe - 6/18/2008 7:00:57 PM

pacemaker

Posts: 1833
Joined: 7/18/2006
From: Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia
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Or could be your regulator going bye bye, it will give you the same symptoms as it fails & drains the battery. I say that because if you allow the battery to rest, it recovers enough zap to start your bike & then run for a while, till it drains the battery again.

< Message edited by pacemaker -- 6/18/2008 7:11:33 PM >

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RE: Fuel problem I believe - 6/19/2008 5:28:03 AM

LoneWolf04

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Joined: 6/4/2006
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well my battery turned the motor over great after it happened. I cranked the hell out of it and couldn''t get it to start. Ill ry changing the fuel filter first and check some other things out when i look it over.

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Post #: 5

RE: Fuel problem I believe - 8/5/2008 9:47:23 AM

LoneWolf04

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Joined: 6/4/2006
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Updating because I just had the bike do the same things again, its been around 500 miles since it did it the last time. I was riding on the freeway maybe 5 minutes and the bike started bogging down so i pulled the clutch in and tried to rev it and get rpms up, then bike then just died. I got it loaded on a truck and back to work caz I was on my lunch and checked it out. The spark seemed very speratic, it would fire every once in awhile, but not continuously. Both wires for 1 and 4 were doing this, and I am highly doubting that both coils would die at the same time.

My guess is either my ICM is getting tepremental, the pulse generator is going, or wiring between the two is faulty. Has anyone had specific issues with either their ICM or pulse generator failing? After the bike cooled for maybe 2 hours I was getting good spark at the wires again and it fired right up, even drove it down the freeway about 30 miles and nothing. I will be looking over the connector ends this weekend and will probably pull the pulse generator cover off and inspect the rotor and sensor.

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RE: Ignition problem I believe - 8/6/2008 12:50:39 PM

LoneWolf04

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Well I checked a few things. The resistance for the pulse generator is good, its 540 ohms, range is 460-580. I tested the peak voltage for the pulse generator and was just over 2.0 volts, min is .7v, seems to be good. I am about ready to take the side cover off for the pulse generator to inspect it and make sure the wires are tight and everything is secure. I am at a loss, and help is much appreciated.

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RE: Fuel problem I believe - 8/6/2008 2:36:16 PM

idodirt

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Joined: 8/14/2006
From: South Florida, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: LoneWolf04

Both wires for 1 and 4 were doing this, and I am highly doubting that both coils would die at the same time.

Both of those plugs get their spark from the same coil according to the wiring diagram. To me, that points to either the ICM, or the IPG.

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RE: Ignition problem I believe - 8/6/2008 2:37:43 PM

rnora

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Joined: 7/17/2008
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the same thing happened to me on the freeway. all i did was bypassed the fuel pump/filter, and ran the fuel line directly to the motor.

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Post #: 9

RE: Ignition problem I believe - 8/6/2008 2:46:26 PM

LoneWolf04

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Joined: 6/4/2006
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idodirt, youre right. Funny thing is, I was looking at the small diagram in the ignition system (section 16 of the honda manual) and it says that 1 and 2 are on one coil and 3 and 4 on the other. I just looked in the back at the full wiring diagram and it shows it how you stated it, 1 and 4, then 2 and 3. I feel stupid for not looking back there, but assumed that it would be correct throughout the book. In any case, if one coil wasn''t firing the other 2 cylinders should at least try to fire on the other coil. In my case I didnt get anything, no sputter, no cough, just the starter cranking.

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RE: Ignition problem I believe - 8/6/2008 2:54:45 PM

idodirt

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Joined: 8/14/2006
From: South Florida, USA
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Yes, the other 2 plugs should try to fire. I would expect a cough or sputter. Pulling the plugs and observing if there is a spark during cranking and the problem showing itself is the challenge. It still seems likely for ICM or IPG. See if there are test procedures for the IPG in the back of the manual. Least expensive part to start with if you can''t tell which is bad. ebay is your friend.

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RE: Ignition problem I believe - 8/11/2008 1:02:56 PM

LoneWolf04

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Joined: 6/4/2006
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The test procedure with the IPG is to test the resistance in the circuit from the ICM plug so you get the whole circuit. It checked fine. The pulse generator is like the old wheel speed sensors on cars that would run off the tranny, its just and electromagnet pulse generator. All of those i''ve ever tested if the resistance is right within the circuit then its been good.

Since the bike runs cooler on the freeway than in the city I would expect it would be something that works harder while at higher RPM''s. And the only thing I can think of that would cause it to not even sputter while trying to start would be the ICM. It''s working harder because its accepting pulses from the IPG and sending out pulses to the coils and in the process is heating up. Once the bike cools for a couple hours it will start back up, my guess would be when the board cools down a hairline crack comes back together and makes contact again.

I checked all the connectors and grounds for the IPG, ICM and coils and they were all good. Wiggled the wiring harness around with the bike running and still nothing, never missed a beat. Like I said, I''m really thinking this is acting like a board issue. Its generating more heat at higher RPM''s and a hairline crack is creating a temporary open at just the right conditions. Once it sits and cools it starts up and runs fine.

My next question is I checked on hondapartsdirect.com and saw there are 2 different ICM part numbers. How am I supposed to know which one I will need? I looked on ebay and most say they fit all f2''s and f3''s which is apparently wrong because I looked at a couple different years and the 2 part numbers that were for the 95''s only applied to the 95 and 96 model years. I read somewhere you are supposed to go by the top line of code on your ICM, mine is MALA US. If anyone knows this is true or if theres some other way to identify it please let me know. Thanks.

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Post #: 12