CCTL (Full Version)

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CCTL

  

jetjestor -> CCTL (6/29/2008 6:55:31 AM)

What was your guys milage when you started to notice the noice? I have just over 6000. And i have noticed it starting just start with the cctl rattle.

  
jesterf41 -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 7:32:45 AM)

I have a 2001 f4i. started around 10,000. there is an easy fix. Have done it 2 my own bike and buddys have done same and no problems since. If your CCTL has a bolt in the end of it. Remove this bolt. go to local hardware store and by a 6mm x 1.00 x 30mm bolt and a nut. Hand screw bolt in just till it hits, HAND TIGHTEN ONLY, then put wrench on bolt to hold and tighten nut against CCTL with another wrench. This will elimanate the rattle and basically makes it a manual tensioner. Somw will say it will hurt the bike but my buddy has over 12k on his since he did this. I have close to 1k and so far all is well. It''s a $1.50 fix and about an hr or so change out because it''s so tight in there but versus the $60 some odd dollars for a ne CCTL and labor if ur gonna have it done it''s well worth it.

2001 cbr f4i
Chrome rims
Micron carbon fiber slip on
Carbon fiber windscreen
Fender elimanater kit
Blue neon

bakesf4i -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 7:36:39 AM)

yeah 6k will do it. I had around 7k when mine went

jesterf41 -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 8:03:34 AM)

If you decide to go with the $1.50 fix let me know I might still be able to find the link that give you step by step instructions on how to do this. Just leave a post on here. Hondas are known for this and thr consenses is that the rattling will not do any damage to anything its just the pin inside that has wear on it that vibrates at certain rpms. I rode mine for a while b4 fixing, the noise just got on my nerves, lol

jesterf41 -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 8:09:52 AM)

This is what a buddy of mine posted on another forum, he is a mechanic, so he knows what he is talking about:

Try this instead of buying a new CCT
Honda Cam Chain Tensioners, yes they suck big time but there is a $1.50 fix for the later Hondas, F3 and up. If the CCT has a plug (bolt) at the outer end remove it. Buy a 6X1.00X30mm bolt and nut. Thread the nut on the bolt and install the bolt into the hole that the plug was in. Gently (fingertip pressure only) rotate bolt until it makes contact with the piston. Hold bolt with wrench and tighten nut against the CCT case. Your CCT will now be silent. Why does this fix work? The CCT in the Hondas does not have a ratcheting mechanism. It depends on a left handed threaded shaft that is spring loaded. Due to the locking pitch thread design this shaft cannot back up. Sounds good so far. Unfortunatly the shaft stays in one place so long that the constant vibration wears out the shaft or the nut that the shaft rides in. The shaft gets sloppy and does not exert enough pressure on the chain pad so the chain starts to rattle at high rpm. The bolt fix exerts just enough pressure on the threaded shaft that it prevents the shaft from vibrating and backing up thus eliminating the chain noise. Yes you will have to adjust the bolt but so far I have no historical data as to how long the time intervals are in between adjustments. Maybe some of you big milege people can provide the data. Any way, hope it prevents you from buying a new CCT. Latest data, the cheap fix has been working for at least 60K miles in a Honda F4


f4ez -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 9:49:13 AM)

yea i have a noise going on but from what ive read on here that noise the cct makes is just hellacious so im not sure if mine is doing it yet is there anyways to test it?

jesterf41 -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 11:09:18 AM)

If its the CCTL it will sound like bb''s rolling aroung in a can. It shouldn''t do it until you get up to about 5k on the rpms. At least mine only did it then but it got worse the longer I let it go. Been told it will not hurt engine though. The CCTL is on the right back side of the motor, it will sound as if something is just loose and rattling. Hondas are known for this because of it being an automatic adjuster, thats the only thing Honda didn''t do right on theses bikes. It''s not a hellacious noise but is more annoing then anything and a buddy of mine ran his all last summer like that and it did get louder but nothing that made it sound like it was gonna blow something up. Where is the sound coming from, what part of engine?

lnsomniatic -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 11:30:26 AM)

mine actually made it to just over 9k miles.  

jesterf41 -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 11:46:06 AM)

Yeah mine started around 10,000 miles. Have heard thats about normal, give or take.

Tahoe SC -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 5:16:41 PM)

so if you tap on the cctl with a wrench, would that free it from the bind area?



f4ez -> RE: CCTL (6/29/2008 7:44:05 PM)

yea i have 4900 miles on mine bought it last summer and one day i herd it and i thoght i dropped something down there and it sounds like it is coming from like right behind my radiator but i cant b sure u know

jesterf41 -> RE: CCTL (6/30/2008 5:35:58 PM)

well the cctl is actually on back side of motor not up front near radiator. Don''t think tapping it will help, lol

Tahoe SC -> RE: CCTL (7/1/2008 7:14:07 AM)

i know where the cctl is at...you can still reach it with a wrench.
just inquiring for a bit more information.

jesterf41 -> RE: CCTL (7/1/2008 5:55:06 PM)

It''s not that it is binding up. the shaft inside the CCTL gets a wear mark on it and makes it vibrate at certain rpms. By taking out the plug in the end of the CCTL and putting in the new longer bolt and nut you are realy turning it into a manual tensioner with out having to change the whole thing out. You just hand tighten the bolt till it hits then u lock down the nut against the CCTL so the bolt can not back out or move in thus getting rid of the noise. If your not sure about trying this then I would just replace the whole CCTL or swap it out with a new manual tensioner. But like I said I know a few guy plus myself that have done this and no problems at all and no more noises.

Tahoe SC -> RE: CCTL (7/2/2008 10:45:09 AM)

that wear mark on the shaft doesn''t wear enough for it to bind and prevent the stock cctl from extending. in fact, as soon as you unbolt the cctl and remove it, the cctl shaft extends like it just seen a naked hot chick.

i am questioning the reasoning behind the mechanic who said that the internals are binding or the weak spring idea. i''ve done extensive research on this already. just picking your brain.

this mod just makes your cctl into a manual cctl, again, using added tension to get rid of the noise...and really has nothing to do with the stock cctl not having enough tension.

a little bit more tension should be ok, but note that too much and your in a world of hurt. also note that if you keep pushing that bolt through, the shaft side of the cctl will launch out of the cctl body.

  

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