RE: Test ride tomorrow
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RE: Test ride tomorrow - 8/19/2008 7:29:14 PM
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MT Wallet
Posts: 1002
Joined: 4/22/2006
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(sorry this is long)
Okay, took it out again for a spin and after riding for about an hour I was idling at a traffic light and waiting for the red light to turn green, when it happens again!
The bike just died on me. I tried to start it and got a weak "chugga-chugga" from the starter.
So again, I rolled my bike to the sidewalk and went under a tree to sort things out.
Used my voltmeter to test the battery and with the engine OFF, it showed "normal" but the LED light that indicates the battery is "normal" was very faint or weak.
I tried to restart the bike after waiting 40 minutes, but there was not even a "chugga-chugga" this time...nothing.
Luckily there was a bike shop about a 1/4 mile away so I rolled/pushed the bike all the way there in the hot sun in full leathers. I have the bike in neutral and for some reason decide to try and start it when I was halfway to the shop and the bike started up no problem at all! THere was no weak "chugga-chugga" sound from the starter, it was like the battery was brand new!
When I get to the shop, the mechanic tells me it''s probably because the bike was not in neutral when I tried to restart it. He said he thinks my bike is fine. When I get home, the battery shows an even stronger charge this time with the engine off.
But why did my bike die at the stoplight in the first place?
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RE: Test ride tomorrow - 8/19/2008 7:51:59 PM
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dinez74
Posts: 1228
Joined: 5/14/2007
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This is funny MT. 
How is the battery connection head? Sometimes it can be faulty too. Try to replace it, won''t cost much.
Sorry to hear you had to push her... Can''t push start too?
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RE: Test ride tomorrow - 8/19/2008 11:23:56 PM
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DukeCBR
Posts: 374
Joined: 3/1/2008
From: Cape Town, South Africa
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Man this is a strange one. Its baffling me. There seems to be no consistency to the problem thats why we cant pin point it. Are you sure that all of your wires leading to and from your stator (well....any wiring) to the battery are joined well and snug, as well as all of your fuses?
Thats the thing, if a battery is dead it simply wont charge on its own, even if you wait for 40 min on the side of the road. Maybe try to reenact what happened around the block where you live so you wouldnt have to push it far. Then while the bike doesnt want to start, dont push it anywhere but lightly tug on the wiring and try to start after every tug. If the bike starts then you know where its not making a good connection.
Flip man, Im sure this is damn frustrating...
< Message edited by DukeCBR -- 8/19/2008 11:26:20 PM >
_____________________________
1993 Honda CBR 900RR Fireblade
Steering Damper
DynoJet Stage 1 Kit
Twin Race Foam Filter
Full Titanium Hindle system
(sold)
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RE: Test ride tomorrow - 8/20/2008 12:42:41 AM
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dinez74
Posts: 1228
Joined: 5/14/2007
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^^ .... and make sure there is no tourist around too.
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RE: Test ride tomorrow - 8/20/2008 1:38:53 AM
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DukeCBR
Posts: 374
Joined: 3/1/2008
From: Cape Town, South Africa
Status: offline
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Especially Japanese tourists with a sea of cameras, or you might see yourself on Youtube...
< Message edited by DukeCBR -- 8/20/2008 1:42:18 AM >
_____________________________
1993 Honda CBR 900RR Fireblade
Steering Damper
DynoJet Stage 1 Kit
Twin Race Foam Filter
Full Titanium Hindle system
(sold)
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RE: Test ride tomorrow - 8/21/2008 8:41:42 AM
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ZRX1
Posts: 57
Joined: 5/22/2007
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MT Wallet,
On one of my other scoots the CBX, was having kind of the same problem where it would quit running at times for no reason. Well I though there was no reason, what I found out one day by accident as I was going to change out the brake fluid from the front master. I was removing the Master and disconnected the brake light switch, I now found that there was movement in the start run KILL switch. The locating pin built into the housing of the switch was broken right at that location inside is where the kill switch makes contact.....
I was not thinking when it would stop running as most of the time I was in a turn and I would turn the steering back to the center and it would start back up. After finding the broken switch housing and a piece out from where the kill switch makes contact, I relized this was the damn problem. Since I replaced the housing I have never had the motor shut down (ie; Killed) since.
You have said that you dropped your scoot once before by chance is the run stop switch moving or can it be moved on the clip on from it''s location pin? if so you might want to look into that area.
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Scoots I own: 79 CBX, 93 900RR, 97 Wing, 01 Erion RR
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RE: Test ride tomorrow - 8/21/2008 1:58:39 PM
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MT Wallet
Posts: 1002
Joined: 4/22/2006
Status: offline
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ZRX1,
That is a good point, and the wiring in my bike is sort of messed up. I am the fifth or sixth owner and whoever owned it before did their own work on the bike, especially on the electrical system.
Someone installed their own turn signals front/back and someone else took out one of the headlights after it broke in a crash.
Right now, the kickstand light and the green neutral light do not work. They will turn on if you wiggle some of the wires near the instrument cluster so something is definitely loose up there.
If I do stall again, I will try to wiggle some wires. Thanks for the advice!
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RE: Test ride tomorrow - 8/22/2008 5:30:17 PM
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MT Wallet
Posts: 1002
Joined: 4/22/2006
Status: offline
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ZRX1, Duke, Dinez and everyone:
I was riding the bike again and after a few runs with the engine at around 5,000 rpm I would stop and check the battery with my voltmeter. It sadly showed the battery was "normal" with the engine OFF, but it was a weak normal charge.
I ride halfway around the island and am about 40 miles from home when I decide to turn the bike off to drink some water. I then find to my horror I cannot restart the bike. This time there was only one "chugga" and then nothing. The voltmeter showed the battery was DEAD.
Luckily, some nice people helped me jumpstart the battery with their van''s battery and the bike started up and I rode home.
I tested the battery with the engine ON, and I''ve found that the engine will not charge the battery at all until it reaches at least 6,000 rpm. Last week, if you recall, the engine would charge the battery at around 5,000 rpm. Now it won''t until the engine is at 6,000 rpm.
Now I know this is not normal and the Honda mechanic said usually it''s the rectifiers that go bad. They will check the entire system when I get my new headlight installed.
For now I have the battery out of the bike and am charging it at home.
THanks for all of your help and advice.
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