Charged battery... no power to bike
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Charged battery... no power to bike - 9/13/2008 10:06:50 AM
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SalemCBR
Posts: 37
Joined: 9/14/2006
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Charged battery. now it reads 13.3 v I have power to the ignition switch. All fuses are good. Any thoughts? No indicator lights. Power at the ignition fuse is .3 volts.
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RE: Charged battery... no power to bike - 9/13/2008 12:53:28 PM
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Hurricane rider
Posts: 623
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problem is obvious, you have a short in a wire somewhere. check your battery cables, its very possible one or both of them are aging and corroded, causing this poor connection.
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no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/14/2008 10:33:16 PM
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SalemCBR
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I can''t find any coroding (sp) wires anywhere. the positive and negetive terminals are perfectly clean. Ohm test says negetive terminal to ground is good. Positive terminal gives me power all the way to the ignition switch.
I''m trying to play with the manual to see if there are any answers I missed. Anybody know how to do a leak test? It doesn''t say clearly in the manual, and I''m no pro at t his... it''s wanting no more then 1.2 mA max. mili-amps? I ''m not sure.
In the manual it asks you to remove the negitive battery wire. Connect the multi-meter to the negitive battery terminal and the ground wire you just removed. I get .4 volts (if volts is what it''s asking for then it passes that. ) I think i''m wrong though.
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/15/2008 9:42:15 AM
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pbrownw
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if you''re looking for a leak, remove one of the battery cables and connect one lead of the multimeter to it and the other to the battery, you''re looking for current, so it should be amps or milliamps, not volts
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/15/2008 10:12:51 AM
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Rickracer
Posts: 133
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If he only has .3 volts at the ignition fuse, he doesn''''t need to be looking for a draw, he needs to be looking for a poor connection. You can also check for a draw with a DMM on volts, safer than using your DMM on amperage, if it''''s pulling more than 10 amps, it will pop the internal fuse in your DMM if it''''s on amps. On volts, it can only go as high as battery volts, but if its that high, you definitely have a draw. If it''s only .4 volts, you probably don''t have a significant draw. While it''s hooked up like that, if you turn the key on, it should go to battery volts, unless you have a bad connection. 
< Message edited by Rickracer -- 9/15/2008 10:14:47 AM >
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/18/2008 10:16:50 AM
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SalemCBR
Posts: 37
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Internet wasn''t working for a few days......
It looks like we''ve concluded further leak testing isn''t nessisary. When I was going that leak test with volts (negetive bat. terminal to disconnected battery negetive line/ground)- if I did turn the key on, then I got the same reading as the battery. 13.2v.... ignition switch off> it''s .4v In case that help anyone with information.
I''ve got power everywhere I can think to test it. Regulator, ignition, - Anything else someone is thinking of? Also what can I do to test the starter relay, or is that going to give me this symptom of no power at the indicator lights? Do I just start stipping all the rubber off the wires to find this fried connection??
Kinda feeling like i''m going to have to break down and take the bike to a shop. The shop i like has a month wait too. So I guess if you''re going to charge the battery you should disconnect it from the bike. Learned.
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/18/2008 3:20:46 PM
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g32bturbo
Posts: 53
Joined: 7/27/2008
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check the connections on the ignition coils. the two prongs could be shorting out on their holding frame. thats what my was did.
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/18/2008 5:21:34 PM
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SalemCBR
Posts: 37
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Mmm Kay... where is that? Coils go right to the part your talking of?
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/19/2008 10:24:09 AM
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g32bturbo
Posts: 53
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take off your gas tank and your intake and you''ll see two black packets with two wires coming off. check that.
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/19/2008 5:47:44 PM
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SalemCBR
Posts: 37
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Just checked ''em and all the wires look good there. Fridgen K&N seems a touch too big. It''s a pain to get in there.
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/19/2008 5:51:55 PM
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g32bturbo
Posts: 53
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have u actually checked the ignition coils for continuity?just throwing stuff out there before you take it to the shop.
< Message edited by g32bturbo -- 9/19/2008 5:54:02 PM >
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/19/2008 7:28:01 PM
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woo545
Posts: 2372
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There''s a 30 amp fuse under the tank (plus what I might be a spare underneath...make sure to check them too.
Have you tried removing the battery terminals and cleaning them?
I''m actually having a similar issue...power would come back on when I touched the battery terminals with the charger. Also, it looks as if my positive might have been loose.
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/20/2008 11:14:16 AM
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SalemCBR
Posts: 37
Joined: 9/14/2006
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woah, a 30a under the tank? that''''s news to me. I''''ll check that out today.
Maybe a du mb question, but how do I check them for continuity? Totally remove the coils from the spark plug then ohm test them from each side where they''''d connect to the spark plug? ...or do I check for continuity through the black boxes.?
< Message edited by SalemCBR -- 9/20/2008 11:15:45 AM >
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RE: no power to bike *Leak test? - 9/20/2008 12:44:06 PM
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SalemCBR
Posts: 37
Joined: 9/14/2006
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I found in the manual how to do the ontinuity test on the ignition coil. -havn''t done it yet.
So I don''''t know how i missed this before. Though I expected there would be a point in this fix like this one. But- When I turn the ignition ON my voltage goes from 13v down to .4volts! Yikes. Thought I tried that...
< Message edited by SalemCBR -- 9/20/2008 12:56:10 PM >
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