Brake de-link help
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Brake de-link help - 10/6/2008 1:48:34 PM
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SoloRider
Posts: 30
Joined: 3/13/2008
From: Sacramento, CA, USA
Status: offline
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I''ve bought a set of front brakes off eBay so I can do the project and still have my bike ridable. I could use a little help. Did anyone make a template of the plates used to replace the secondary master cylinder on the left side? I don''t have the tools to make my own so I''ll need to find someone in town to make them for me.
I figure that I can convert the calipers I bought and replace the linked brakes if I need to or want to sell the bike I can''t imagine selling though.
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1993 CBR1000F
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RE: Brake de-link help - 10/6/2008 9:25:04 PM
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Shadow
Posts: 3630
Joined: 12/21/2007
From: Pinetown, South Africa
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Did you buy calipers from the same year of manufacture as your bike ? If they''re from a 92 or earlier, I don''t think they''ll fit- the mounting points on the front are different.........
It''s a big project.....good luck
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RE: Brake de-link help - 10/7/2008 8:00:39 AM
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SoloRider
Posts: 30
Joined: 3/13/2008
From: Sacramento, CA, USA
Status: offline
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I have a 93 and the calipers are from a 95 so they''re interchangeable. They came with all the hoses. I just didn''t want to screw up the original calipers.
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1993 CBR1000F
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RE: Brake de-link help - 10/7/2008 9:29:54 AM
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Shadow
Posts: 3630
Joined: 12/21/2007
From: Pinetown, South Africa
Status: offline
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Are you aware of the specific bleeding sequence to be followed with DCBS bikes ?
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RE: Brake de-link help - 10/7/2008 2:52:42 PM
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SoloRider
Posts: 30
Joined: 3/13/2008
From: Sacramento, CA, USA
Status: offline
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I haven''t done any brake work on the bike so I haven''t had to bleed them. I do have the Honda factory manual.
Is it really a big project? The description of it seems pretty straightforward. The only thing I wish I had is compressed air to blow out the calipers after drilling through the chambers.
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1993 CBR1000F
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RE: Brake de-link help - 10/7/2008 3:03:26 PM
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TimBucTwo
Posts: 608
Joined: 6/13/2006
From: Upstate NY, USA
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I would have sold my bike if I could not have de-linked it. I hate the LBS.
It is a simple process. You really don''t want to go back to linked once you de-link. I don''t think de-linking would detour a buyer. To me it is a big plus.
Look at the attached picture. I made two simple brackets from some thin aluminum flat stock I got at Home Depot. Save all of you fasteners and use them as I did.
I flew to Green Bay today and I am a long way from home so I can''t help as much as I would like. I have all the parts and part numbers needed to do what I did to de-link at home. I also would have made you some brackets or traced mine.
The first step is to remove all brake lines, hoses, calipers and valves. All you should have is the master cylinder on the clip-on.
Make ready the calipers (I take it that you have read the thread on de-linking and have seen the pictures).
Make the brackets by drawing the outline on the aluminum stock and then hack sawing the ruff shape. Finish the bracket with a coarse flat and rounded file. It only takes 1/2 hour per bracket to make. I used large aluminum washers and cable crimps that I got from Home Depot.
In the photo you can see the cable crimps that I drilled out to 5/16". I think I sawed the cable crimps to 3/8" thickness but I can''t remember for sure what thickness they are. The S.S. lines are direct order off of a 1990(that year is not linked).
There is no special bleeding when de-linked, you will however need to get the air out of the lower bleeds before doing the tops.
 Attachment (1)
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RE: Brake de-link help - 10/7/2008 3:18:09 PM
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TimBucTwo
Posts: 608
Joined: 6/13/2006
From: Upstate NY, USA
Status: offline
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In the photo above you can see that I used the factory bolts up top. Below I used a bolt that is the same diameter as the factory bolt or what ever was passing through the caliper. I could not find a 8mm bolt the correct length.
Re-cap on the photo, first you see the bracket then the cable crimp, the washer and then the caliper. On the other side of the caliper would be the washer, cable crimp, bracket, lock washer and nut.
The cable crimp is just a spacer that I built. It was the easiest thing to do to get the proper spacing. I wish I were home to measure it. I cut it to length and then opened the hole up to take the bolt.
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