My finished F2
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RE: My finished F2 - 3/31/2006 7:11:44 PM
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bubba_d_duck
Posts: 55
Joined: 11/21/2005
Status: offline
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so what kinda prep work does it take to paint plastic. do you have to sand it. i was thinking about painting my f2 next winter but i have only messed with metal never plastic.
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RE: My finished F2 - 3/31/2006 7:52:43 PM
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Versatilx1
Posts: 15
Joined: 3/28/2006
From: Oxnard,CA
Status: offline
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That is an excellent paint job wonderful job on the bike my friend
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RE: My finished F2 - 3/31/2006 10:13:24 PM
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Leif
Posts: 103
Joined: 3/16/2006
Status: offline
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very nice, very clean look. i like it! great job
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RE: My finished F2 - 3/31/2006 10:37:39 PM
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907hondaf3
Posts: 178
Joined: 1/14/2006
Status: offline
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very nice f2 ..clean clean clean
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RE: My finished F2 - 4/1/2006 12:40:08 AM
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JBaz
Posts: 777
Joined: 1/30/2006
Status: offline
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This was my bike in a "streetfighter ghetto phase"
Fast way to do rattle can paint jobs. Grab yourself some plastic welder, sandpaper (80, 220 gritt, 400 grit wet sandpaper), woven fiberglass cloth, fiberglass resin (clear liquid kind is better), aluminum foil, bondo body filler, denatural alcohol, a few cans of primer and a few cans of paint (spray). All the materials should be under 100 bucks. Here's a step by step run down of how to fix your farings and a quick and dirty rattle can spray job. Gloss black is cheap and easy to do. If you go black, also get black primer, but if you get another color, you can use grey primer or if you can find colored primer, use that instead. You can get clear coat as that'll add more protection to your paint job, but honestly, I don't use it since I really don't want to protect a $20 paint job. Clear coat also takes a good bit of skill do use it or else the color will fade or look cloudy if not done properly.
1. Sand down the area of where the cracks are, including between the cracks are in the farings. Wipe the area down with a rag to get the dust off. Use plastic weld to hold the pieces together. If your missing a piece of the faring or have a hole, use aluminum foil and tape it to the painted side. Make sure you tape it all around the area.
2. Next sand down the platic weld glue job a bit so its more flush with the back side of the farings. Wipe the area down again.
3. Cut a piece(s) of the fiberglass cloth to go over the cracks (about 2-3 inches from the crack itself). Get a tub some some mixing spoons (I got a batch from wendies) and mix yourself a small amount of resin and hardener.
4. Add the fiberglass cloth to the farings and use the spoon to pour and spread the resin over the cloth. Once the fiberglass gets 'wet' it should stick fine to the faring. Don't pour a lot of resin down or else it'll run off and if your doing in an area that has some angles, you'll have some thick and thin spots. Just pour enough to soak the fiberglass cloth.
5. Cut more pieces of cloth to fit the area and repeat step 4. More layers is better. I usually go 3 layers so stop after that.
6. Sand down the painted side with 80 gritt sandpaper to get unwanted stuff off such as resin and whatever. Use 220 for a finer touch area.
7. Next use bondo body filler to level the surface of the farings down and sand that down with either 80 or 220 sandpaper initally.
8. Once you have all pieces plastic welded, fiberglassed, bondoed, and sanded, sand down lightly all the farings thats will be painted with 400 gritt wet sandpaper. To wet sand you need to get a bucket of water. You can add some dish soap to the mix, but not necessary. Dip the 400 sandpaper in the water and lightly sand the farigns. You don't have to apply too much pressure, just lightly go over the surface just enough to get a finer surface compared to that of 220. You'll notice the difference of roughness between 220 and 400.
9. Use a shop rag or paper towels to wipe the area with denaturalized alcohol. Do this everytime when you sand to get oil, dust, and other shit off before you spray primer or paint.
10. Next is primer. You have to add primer so the paint has something to stick to. If you get rattle cans, get a rattle can paint gun (for spray cans) as you can control where you spray better. 1st coat should be thick but don't just spray it on. Any mistakes in primer will amplify 10x when you spray the paint and can give your bike a crappy look. To spray correctly, just stay an even distance from the sprayer to the farings. Optimal distance is about 12" for most sprayers. Go at a constant pace of sprayin the farings and spray only when your moving in the same direction. Don't keep spraying when you change directions or el
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Proud owner of:
2004 Honda CBR600 RR
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RE: My finished F2 - 4/3/2006 11:59:20 PM
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JBaz
Posts: 777
Joined: 1/30/2006
Status: offline
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Playing with a new idea. Took the pipe off and rear pegs. Cleans up the look of the bike. What you guys think? Yes it's loud.
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Proud owner of:
2004 Honda CBR600 RR
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RE: My finished F2 - 4/4/2006 3:51:22 PM
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JBaz
Posts: 777
Joined: 1/30/2006
Status: offline
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I like the look of the bike, but man, does it sound like a ricer on steroids. I gotta put the pipe back on.
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RE: My finished F2 - 4/4/2006 7:08:03 PM
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v1perfan
Posts: 5
Joined: 4/1/2006
Status: offline
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There probably isn't enough clearance between the undertail and rear tire, but how about getting a custom pipe bent between the headers and the muffler and running an undertail exhaust?
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RE: My finished F2 - 4/4/2006 8:58:27 PM
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city worker
Posts: 1983
Joined: 12/28/2005
From: Big Bear Lake, Calif, USA
Status: online
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thought about removing the rear hugger on mine, my 93 F-2 is R W and B, after seeing yours I just might do that, I see people looking to buy and install rear huggers on there bikes so I thought they were totaly functional pieces of the bike, but I like the look on yours, I bobed the tail on mine, cut back the rear fender moved the lic plate up under the tail light and took the spacers out of the rear sig's so they are closer in, so it all looks more streamline from the rear.
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RE: My finished F2 - 4/4/2006 11:00:15 PM
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JBaz
Posts: 777
Joined: 1/30/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: v1perfan
There probably isn't enough clearance between the undertail and rear tire, but how about getting a custom pipe bent between the headers and the muffler and running an undertail exhaust?
Why? I do have an RR too.
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Proud owner of:
2004 Honda CBR600 RR
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RE: My finished F2 - 4/10/2006 12:51:05 AM
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Funedude05
Posts: 112
Joined: 3/3/2006
Status: offline
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Nice looking bike Jbaz. i don't know that i've ever seen an all black one and i like the way it looks. it just kind of flows with everything. and as for taking the exhaust off, i did it once to try and rode around a little bit. about 7 grand or so your ears start to not like the idea of no exhaust. but you're right it looks goood.
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RE: My finished F2 - 10/27/2006 3:19:27 PM
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RatherHaveAnR6
Posts: 88
Joined: 10/1/2006
From: Michigan State University
Status: offline
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wow, you just inspired me to use spray bomb instead of a gun... i got a salvage title F4i from my friend, its not in horrible shape but im gonna fix the plastics then paint it. I was gonna do semi-gloss/matte black (which ever you want to call it). Did you use special plastic paint or just regular spray paint? and about how long will the paint hold up on the bike? Im really going for the cost effective route on this one, but i dont want to tear the damn thing apart again to re-paint it in a year... and when you talked about plastic weld, did you mean the tube (apoxy) mix, or like a plastic welder...? i read alot about the apoxy kind, and everyone that used it said it worked perfectly... im gonna be useing that i think here pretty soon (when ever i find the time to tear the bike down while its being stored), Nice job again
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2002 F4i - Blinker Tail, M4 Slip-On, Competition Werks Fender Eliminator
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